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Antarctica, Day 11: 1-30-22 Terra Australis
8 am weather balloon launch, on the 7th deck. We were allowed to go beyond the “Do Not Enter” sign to the helipad area where a biologist and a glaciologist—now meteorologist— were launching the second weather balloon. This is part of a global warming study that ships are asked to take part in. It’s a…
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Antarctica, Day 10: 1-29-22 The White Continent, Saturday
We started early with a Zodiac landing on a little island called Cuverville, named after a Belgian admiral (who might be an ancestor of my cousins with a variation of the same name!) It was a small island with lots of rock outcropping, the rest covered in snow, of course. It was only 7:40 am…
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Antarctica, Day 9: 1-28-22 The Last Continent
This might have been the best day of our whole trip. We saw an “iceberg bay” from our morning window with steep snow-covered cliffs all around. It was cozy with lots to look at. On our Zodiac ride into Hidden Bay, we saw a Weddell seal, two leopard seals (both sunning on small icebergs), Pintado…
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Antarctica, Day 8: 1-27-22 The 7th Continent, Damoy Point
This was the day that we’ve been looking forward to, our first steps on Antarctica. So much of this experience is other-worldly. We feel like we’re on Mars—the stark beauty and inhospitable climate. Or, in the Himalayas— the cold and rugged terrain that we struggle to climb through. In fact, it’s much easier than I…
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Antarctica, Day 7: 1-27-22 The Ice-Covered Continent
This morning, we glided slowly across the passage under overcast skies. As I was listening to a talk about the science of the day, I could see John through the great stern windows looking out with binoculars and a camera. Then I received a text from him that there were whales and “Land Ho!” I…
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Antarctica, Day 6: 1-26-22 The Driest Dessert, The Islands Appear
Yesterday was non-stop. Even though we’d been at sea all day, we did not rest (much). We started with another PCR spit test. (Left the vials for pickup.) Then we had a schedule. We needed to attend an IAATO mandatory meeting for everyone who wants to go ashore anywhere. Here we were presented with the…










