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We packed up and left our comfortable but a bit inconvenient Horse and Farrier Inn at about 9 am with the aim of arriving at Housesteads on Hadrian’s Wall at 10 am. Bingo, on the dot! Hadrian’s Wall was started in around 121 A.D. by Emperor Hadrian to keep the marauders (Scots and Pics) out of England. It took 6 years and team of engineers to build and is a marvel of ancient architecture. The 8 foot wall stood 12 feet high in places and did what it was meant to do for 200 years. Housesteads is the best preserved portion of the accompanying fort and soldier accommodations, complete with everyone’s favorite, the Roman toilet where water regularly flushed away sewage and apparently still does in a storm. (Though the toilets are not open for public use—no roof, no seats, no doors….

The Wall is a landmark of Northern England because it ran from Newcastle to Carlisle (where we were yesterday.) The Carlisle Castle is greatly constructed with stones from their part of the Wall as are many of the churches and other historic buildings along the Wall’s route. So nice to see a few places where the ancient structure was left intact, except for the height which has been reduced to 6’ in places, and much lower in others. 

Today was a proper English/Scottish day— very cold! I had my woolly hat on and a pair of Scottish gloves— and was still cold. We opted not to climb the wall this trip.

Then, to Vindolanda—the privately owned archeological site that is teaming with tourists and activity. We remember coming here 28 years ago with our young kids—who still remember! We played games to keep them interested and let them run around with grandma and grandpa who were traveling with us. Then as now, we went down to the crafters houses for lunch and a break from the rain that was just starting. A cozy sandwich and slice of cake were just right for a hard day of walking!

We then hit the road for Hexham where we turned left and headed north. As soon as we saw “Scotland” written in a giant boulder, we both noted that the weather changed. What was previously gloomy became rain and mist so thick we could barely see. It was another 40 miles before we arrived at our lovely B & B called Woodside House in Longniddry. Ahh, a bit of Prosecco, homemade shortbread and a comfortable chair. We’re going to like it here. 

For dinner, we went in to Aberlady, a small town near us that we’ve often driven through. What a delightfully gorgeous restaurant and hotel!

The guys were drinking a bit and comparing handicaps like crazy. They obviously didn’t know each other, all from the south, and had just arrived as part of a golf tour. They were trying to relax and but were loud. Tomorrow, they will likely be in another part of the country, my guess is Fife, where they will likely be playing one of the St. Andrews courses. It’s a tough and expensive way to see Scotland, but it works if you’re not interested in meeting any locals. And at least they didn’t shout themselves into a bar fight like almost happened in 2023 up north. Not that we’re looking for another one, but that was exciting.

After dinner, we had another wonderful chance experience. John had a hankering for some whisky so we stopped in at the local shop which was still opened and met Gill who knows everything about everything. She mentioned that she’s a member at Gullane, one of the premier local courses. In five minutes time, she gave me her number and said to look her up next time we were opal. Ing a troop, that she could get us on for 25 pounds (reguarlly 325!) 2027 here we come!

A lovely ride back to our B & B, the Woodside and to a very sound sleep!