Scotland August 2023 with Patricia and John Brugman
Day 1: 8-15-23
A Prius did it again! Our golf clubs and bags all fit in that little car and Valek from Pasadena Taxi did a great job. At LAX, we noticed how busy Bradley was today in comparison with last year when we went to Antarctica, and we felt like the only people in the terminal. You could’ve roller-skated through the place! Today the place was bustling. And they’ve rebuilt and redecorated! Upstairs was gorgeous. We shopped at Gucci and Burberry. I looked at a Gucci scarf the modelled a classic Burberry bucket hat ($450), then quietly walked away while a silent film played against the wall. Poetic…
British Air was terrific. We were cozy and comfy from the moment we sat down. The food was delicious and after a movie, we both slept all the way to London, where we changed plans to Edinburgh. Everything was by retina id so all we had to do was place our passports on the scanner and we were in. This made London immigration as easy as looking in the mirror! Our luggage did its own thing. We read and napped on the plane to Edinburgh and were fairly fresh on arrival—and ready for golf!
But first, the luggage. On previous trips, we watched for golf clubs and often guessed from the look of the other passengers that we were the only golfers aboard, until golf bag after golf bag started coming. This time, I pulled off two suitcases and one set of clubs, thinking we’d be first out. But wait, wait, wait, and no yellow bag…. Soon everyone was gone except us. And the missing bag was mine.
We bought SIM cards for our phones and started tracking the air tag. Yep. Yellow bag hadn’t made the transfer and was still in London. Nothing to do, but get the car, (extremely easy this year) and drive to East Lothain. At the Standingstone (with a real standingstone in the garden!) Karen was just coming in from the horses in the pasture by the road as we arrived. Soon it was big hugs and, “So glad to see you!” and, “How have you been?”
After tea and quite a bit of talk, we decided that there was still enough time to play our first game—so off we went up the road to Gifford GC, a charming 9-hole course with stone bridges and a burn (river) running through it. No rental clubs available, but they did have a bag of beat-up thrift store clubs that I was free to pick from. I found a 60 degree and a putter, both off brands and very old, but good enough. I did all right using clubs from John’s bag and kept the borrowed clubs for short game work. We had a delightful game in overcast weather with a bit of sun peeping out. Scotland skies are the best!
After dinner at the Goblin Ha’ just down the street, we went back home to party with Karen and Anne, give them birthday gifts and cards— and follow with lots of wine and laughter. Fun times with old friends. Clubs tomorrow? Stay tuned. Good night. Patti
Day 2: 8-17-23* The Missing Bag Mystery Continues
Karen made us a full Scottish breakfast at 8 am. And the tea… she makes the best. We talked the morning away while I took breaks to track the missing bag (still at the airport) and make one call to the British Air who reassured me that they were doing all they could.
Karen and I walked the farm, from the donkeys (each with a name and a different age). From there, we could see the Suffolk sheep who are all pure bred and raised as show sheep. Yes, that’s a thing! They were beautiful, but marked in blue to indicate mating status. Go sheep! Then, to the goats (Norman grew up under Karen’s desk four winters ago and then moved out— as all kids do!) Finally, to the horses across the road that needed to be brought in. Lomond is the highland pony that Karen bought from the Queen a few yeas ago. It was quite a big deal then— so fitting that my gift to her was a crown! So this a working farm with lots of action, indeed.
Karen assured us that she would be home to accept the clubs and that we should just go have fun. So, like kids ourselves, we went in North Berwick and shopped, then had lunch at the Westgate Gallery—lovely art while we dined. Then to Gullane Golf Club—without clubs. I had to rent. There are three courses at Gullane. No. 1 is the slightly more elevated course that is used as a qualifier and for the Ladies Scottish Open (2018). It’s a great course, but Gullane No. 2 is the real peach. It has fabulous views and does a bit of climbing, but the roll and reach is so much more. A 150-yard shot will easily go 180 downwind (it was blowing out there) and then just 120 the other way. Great fun to hit the driver downhill, though! The views were so gorgeous that I had to stop and take photos in every direction on every hole! But I was glad to have every jacket and pullover with me. I wore them both. And a borrowed hat (mine are in the golf bag) from John, the one I gave him recently—ironically, it’s a bucket hat (not a Burberry!) I never knew how perfect a bucket hat behaves in the wind! It made the weather a bit easier for sure!
Finally, on the 12th hole, I checked my phone and had momentarily good news. My bag had moved from the airport—hurrah! It was now at a warehouse—boo! And it didn’t move again. Without that bag, our plans tomorrow might have to change.
After a lovely game (John lost 7 balls, but all were beautiful shots caught by a breeze!), we had dinner at The Old Clubhouse, a big favorite. Back in 2018 when we attended the Scottish Open here, we had dinner with Jenny Shin and her friend and then met Laura Davies in the adjoining room—big party. And it was bustling again with golfers of all kinds, even a few Americans and a barking dog! True. I had my first haggis of the trip and maybe the best I’ve very had. (Haggis, Neeps, and Tatties is a very traditional dish here.) John had a meat and veggie pie—how Scottish of both of us. Good night!
Day 3: 8-18-23
Oh, Where oh Where Did My Yellow Bag Go!
We finished yesterday without any more news on the yellow bag so we started today on the watch. Karen had an online meeting, which set us on to a discussion about online meetings. But the nagging situation of the lost bag took over. We called British Airlines again and became actors in another comedy scene. “I’m sorry, sir. I cannot hear you.” And again. “I’m going to end this call, sir, because I cannot hear you.” And a second call, John out in the garden in fairly freezing weather wearing only a golf shirt, shouting slowly (and calmly) through the cold and wind. And then the BA rep wanting numbers that were on a notepad we’d left in the car. Me, grab keys, run to the car, get notebook. Back to the cold garden. Read the numbers. Him, “Now here’s your reference number.” Me, running to the kitchen to get a pen. Back to the cold garden. Write the numbers. And him, finally, “It usually takes 48 hours to deliver a bag.” That would be today, which means that we will be waiting here until it arrives, enjoying Karen’s hospitality, garden, and animals. This might be the best garden we’ll see this trip! (Have had to cancel our reunion for golf today with Peter, our first golfer friend in Scotland, however. Will reschedule for the end of the trip.)
At 11:30, we saw movement on the bag tracker! By noon, we got an email that the bag would be delivered soon. But alas, the hours passed as we watched via air tag, my bag in the back of a nameless van go from house to house 20 miles away all over Edinburgh. Karen waited anxiously with us, then had to leave for an apt. We said our last goodbyes in case this was it for our visit. She assured us that we we welcome another night, if needed. Finally, an email message said we’d receive our bag by 2, but at 5 the driver called, lost and searching for the Standingstone Farm. I stood in the street and guided him in, a young kid, fresh out of uni and trying so hard. They’d given him a double load because there were so many lost bags with the new and improved luggage handling system. We were packed and ready to go in a minute and I was just writing a note to Karen when she appeared with two cards for us. One said, “Silly Gift” and the other said, “Another one.” We were so surprised. They were toy punch outs of birds to assemble. How adorable, We were so happy to say goodbye with more hugs.
On the road, we made good time, all of three hours right to the door of TIgh Na Bruach or *Friendly Lodge” in Gallic. We’re in Scots-land now and got the proper Gallic welcome, Cead Mile Failte. After meeting Annie, our host, and the whole family, we walked down the hill. The town is quaint with just one-street and one stop light. Up the street, across the wee bridge was the Duke of Gordon Hotel, a very happening place. We walked into a greeting of—“The kitchen closes in 15 minutes. You must order now.” Next to us, a fellow in a kilt was chatting up the older ladies and a men’s group in the next room was singing “Bloomin’ Heather.” I was in Heaven. Turned out, the local golf club was having their night out drinking and singing everything they knew. We loved it! We ordered food and drinks for us and eventually and extra glass of wine for the captain of the golf club— as thanks. Then we talked golf until The Duke closed and walked back up the hill to TIgh Na Bruaich where our room was warm and all our things were laid out as we left them. Very cozy. Good night.
Day 4: 8-19-23*
(First of all, we hope our So Cal friends and family are high and dry and that the predicted disaster lessens quickly. We’re watching the news with you.)
Now life feels normal. We woke and had a delightful breakfast with our new host, Annie. Other guests (Charles Spencer and Helen) were UFLs (Up From London, is a thing here) and knew the area very well. Their mission is to find Cluny’s Cave, a mythical place that involves a missing treasure, referred to in “Kidnapped” by Robert Louis Stevenson. For these tourists, the search continues!
After a delightful breakfast of porridge with fruit and cream with a side of scrambled eggs, we were off to our course for the day, Boat of Garten, named after the ferry on the Spey River. These days, there is delightful tourist train that goes back and forth (think Disneyland) on a private track right next to the course. Every hour or so, we were treated with toot toot, rumble rumble, chug chug.
Our tee time was 10:30. We arrived to a few clouds then sparkling sunshine to illuminate the clubhouse and starter’s house and shop. Absolutely charming. There is no driving range, but a netted cage that is perfect for swinging pa few clubs and feel that all is well. We asked the starter if we could team up with anyone—always looking for locals to play with for course knowledge and a bit of culture. Instead, we were teamed up with a couple from St. Louis, our age, and their caddies, who were both very Scottish. Absolutely perfect. I could tell that the woman was going to be a big hitter and she was. Wow. But only when she focused. I wanted to take her aside and work on a few mechanics so that she could be consistent, but that isn’t really done. So, while my game was a bit shorter, my score was much lower. John was hitting gorgeous shots but not always in the fairway. Shots in the trees were often lost. Not fair! The caddies were so much help and fun.
Besides finding balls and giving a few putting lines, they gave us knew golf gags. If your putt is too short, “You didn’t eat your porridge” and if your ball is near a bunker, it is “Nitby”—not-in-the-bunker-yet! If you ask your partner where you drive just went, he might answer, “Blind Stag,” —no ideer. If you are on the green and it’s still your turn, “Dead Sheep”—still ewe (you). We laughed and laughed, but suspect our friends back home (not you!) might not get the gags…and explaining doesn’t make them funnier. Ha ha!
Boat of Garten is a parkland course (with trees and bushes) that runs through a hilly valley. It felt very natural. It was challenging, but fair and spectacularly beautiful. On the 10th tee, we were treated to a display of hickory sticks in use! There were enough bags for each of the groups ahead of us to play three holes with these historic clubs. We weren’t part of the group, but our younger caddie, Bruce, gave it a try and put a nice ball in the trees. Two holes later, since we’re at the rear of this special group, we were invited to “clean up” the drinks and treats left for them. We were given tarts and meat cakes, beer, and tea, all as part of the party— very festive! It was just the break we needed and probably why this game took more than 4 hours!(very un-Scottish!)
At the end of the game, we had a late lunch and talked to the woman who had served us on the 10th green. A retired mechanical engineer (Gordon) spotted John (also an engineer) and started a conversation about S/N Curves. I brought up the recent Titan disaster (should have built round) and he brought up the amazing Concord and how it never experienced fatigue because it was constantly “self annealing”— super cool stuff for just chatting at the golf course! Nodding and smiling goodbyes, we went into town to buy Annie a special request item from the Post Office General Store. We had a lot of fun deciding which coffee cozy (yep, that’s a thing) to buy her which pleased her very much when we returned!
Back home, we took a wee rest to change and turn around, then out into the fresh rain—destination Gordon’s Hotel for more bar action. Sadly, our friends did not return tonight so we had our own whisky tasting and mini tutorial from the barman. An absolutely delightful day full great golf and interesting people!
Day 5: 8-20-23
Our delightful host, Annie, admits to being a bit scattered at times so we all had a laugh at breakfast this morning when she offered us two kinds of whisky (Scotch) with our croissants, or, if we preferred, orange juice and tea. Then came the tea and eggs, served with two knives (no fork or spoon). We were all talking and laughing so hard, I don’t think we even finished what we were served, though it was completely delicious! Since today is moving day, we had to move out early. So, very fond goodbyes to Annie and family and off we went, to the Spey Valley.
We are in Gallic-land here so we needed a translation. Spey refers to the Spey (hawthorn) valley and the town, Granton on Spey Golf Club, was named after Sir James Grant, the local laird of the area in 1766. The golf course doesn’t go back that far, but was designed by Willie Park of Musselburgh fame. James Braid also took a hand in refining the design. These days, it’s a traditional nine out and nine back course, but loops around in two places. The 7th tee hits over the 11th fairway and the 11th tee hits over the 7th fairway! Hole 1 and 13 share some of the same land. So, be careful there. And the 13th and 18th almost share greens, so be careful not to hit to the wrong one! It’s a beautiful hilly course through deep woods which means that straight shots are rewarded. We’re becoming very good at mountain goat golf! I did well and John, who is a lovely golfer, only lost two balls today, remembering that driver isn’t always needed!
Annie told us at breakfast that if we had time, we should stop by an island castle called Loch an Eilien on the way to Granton on Spey. We decided to do the castle after golf (and clubhouse lunches of lamb and beef stew, today!) The ride was much longer than advertised and often on a single-track road, which means that cars coming the other way share the same road and both have to carefully edge by or back into a turnout. Rather scary driving, for some, but if amazingly no one seems to have even a scrape going by. See below for the darling castle almost floating on the loch. We are determined to see more castles this trip because of this little gem.
The ride to Elgin was easy once we had our own lane again! We went through village after village all decked out with hanging flower baskets— so lovely. Well, now we know why! The villages all get together and the council decides on the flowers. The area councils do all the work, which is why the flowers are always in bloom, look similar and are everywhere. It’s the kind of look that makes a driver step on the brake when he/she arrives in any town and say, “This looks like a perfect place for tea and shopping!” Which is why this movement all over Britain is called “Britain in Bloom.”
Westfield House is on a very large acreage and has been in the McClean family for centuries. We stayed here in 2017 in a top corner room. This time, we had our pick and chose the one overlooking a clearing the forest with a small view of the road. The room is big and lovely and comfortable. Best of all, though, is just being back here. We had such fond memories of Veronica from last time that I’ve kept in touch with the promise of returning. Last time we were here, she wore huge red oven mitts that looked to me like lobsters so this time I brought her a gift of alligator oven mitts. She loves them and said they cheered her up. In between moving in and settling down, she told us all the family news, and not all of it good so she does need a bit of cheering up! We’re here for four days, so they’ll be plenty of time to walk the gardens and perhaps sip tea together. Once we were fairly caught up, John and I went out for a short dinner and that was that. Tomorrow and tomorrow. We hope our So Cal friends and their houses are safe!
Day 6: 8-21-23
A Links at Last
Veronica served us breakfast this morning wearing the new alligator gloves (or oven mitts) I gave her. When she opened up her thumb, we could see all the way down the alligator’s throat and count each alligator tooth! (I think she likes them.)
We’re in the middle of a 500-acre wood with very poor reception, so we had to borrow the house phone to find a starting time for today. We’re booked tomorrow at the renown Nairn Golf Club, but today we had choices. We could either revisit the sister course, Nairn Dunbar GC (where we played with the Baptist minister, Alistair, ten years ago) or go to Old Moray (absolutely fabulous, as well). After the first call, we found out that Old Moray was hosting a senior open and it was too late for John to sign up! So that meant Nairn Dunbar, which we were anxious to try again anyway. There were so many times open on the tee sheet that we didn’t even call, but just drove down there. Now, some of you know that I’m not always shy, so when the starter gave us a 12:40 as a “2-ball,” I immediately asked if we might be paired with another twosome. This left the starter a bit confused. He so wanted to help, but couldn’t. I decided to troll for friends and asked a woman in the parking lot who was putting on her shoes. Then a man who was putting on his shoes. Then gave up and went to practice putting. Two men were on the practice green, alone. Could it be that they were a two ball and would love to play with Americans? I asked and they welcomed us warmly! We had a 4-ball with two Scotsmen, Ollie and Brian, and lovely players both.
Nairn Dunbar is very close to the ocean and is a proper links course. Links is defined in several ways. The proximity to the ocean means that the land is useless for crops. The thin layer of grass grows over mostly sand and the fairways are often rippled like great dunes in the Sahara. Even though these courses all boast “designed by James Braid” or “Old Tom Morris” really what these greats did was to walk the land and say, “The tee box goes here, the green goes there.” The golf course already existed in their minds, they just portioned it out. Classically, the sheep dug out the bunkers as a way of hiding from the wind, then people moved the bunkers to trickier positions near the greens. This course feels absolutely perfect. I just love the roll of the fairways and the contours on the greens. We had some tricky pin placements, but Ollie and Brian saw them coming and told us, “Stay to the left of the flag and you’ll be fine!”
We played this course on our first trip, ten years ago. On that day, I was horrified when my approach shot on no. 7 landed three feet short of the flag, then seemed to look around and started rolling. Roll, roll, roll, right off the green into a very deep bunker! Not fair, I thought! Well today, the pin wasn’t on that side and the guys said, “Keep it right of the flag,” which I did. When we got to the green, I stood on the spot where the flag had been that day and saw how the physics worked. It had been a very tough pin placement. Today, not bad for those of us on the right side of the pin!
Two holes later, Ollie pointed out the dogleg and told me that I was strong enough to hit it right over the bunker, so I tried. Then he announced, “Upp! You hit the wall!” What wall, no one said anything about a wall! But sure enough, the burn (man-made river) had a wall. They told me I had a free drop (nice guys) so I took it and parred the hole.
No. 18 is a tough par 5 and everyone’s head-shaker. We were hitting into a very stiff wind, with a familiar burn running across the middle. The green seemed to be 20 feet above the fairway, 3-4 shots away. We fired away to see our balls curling in the wind, except John’s ball, which Ollie said was so straight, “You could hang the washing on that one!” But even John got caught by the wind up near the green. I was there in 4, not bad, but Ollie tricked us all. He was right next to the pin in 3, on a green that looked like pizza dough in midair— up and down all over the place. How did he do it? But even he was disappointed by a 2-putt for par instead of one for birdie. We All shook hands than consoled him with a beer in the clubhouse where we talked Scottish golf politics and what needs to be done in order to save so many dying golf courses. So this is my plea to friends. Come on over. The golfing is great, and especially good at all the courses you’ve never heard of before!
Back at the house, Veronica was hosting a tennis party. She has courts on her property and the local club likes to play here occasionally. We watched them come and go. We She likes to serve them drinks, which I think means more than tea!
Day 7: 8-22-23
Today was the big day for our Nairn GC round. I booked this one before we came, but when we stopped by the course yesterday, an earlier tee time had opened up. It would be with two Americans who booked through an agency. They would have caddies which worked out well for us the other day, so we agreed to join them.
We started the day with Veronica’s traditional Scottish breakfast. Have I told you about porridge? It’s a very creamy cooked grain eaten with fruit and cream on top. It’s quite tasty so I might bring some home in my luggage (uncooked that is!)
We arrived at the golf course just in time to gather ourselves and find the first tee. Amazingly, we had a friend waiting! Jim, the caddie from Boat of Garten, greeted us wearing his caddie bib. Could it be that he was one of the caddies in our group? Sadly, no, but he saw our names on the tee sheet and wanted to say hello. He also had a gift for John, a yellow Calloway! (The other day, both caddies had done their best to make sure John didn’t lose a ball so he knew John’s brand well.) When he found one on another course, he saved it—just in case. Now that’s a Scottish welcome! (He was in the group behind us, so whenever we crossed paths, he made comments like, “Good shot,” or “Why so many in the bunker?”
Nairn is a classic links course. The ocean is always in view and the beach comes in to play on several of the first holes. Bunkers are well placed, but unlike Nairn Dunbar, they have been lifted so that good fairway shot do not roll into them. I suppose when so many of their patrons are from the States, the greens keepers have to make it as easy as possible. In fact, we were playing with Texans and behind us were fellows from Ohio. Not a chance of playing with locals here. And there’s nothing the greens keepers can do about the wind.. When it blew, our shots flew left and right in the breeze! Even our putts blew off course!
Our caddies were young men so II quizzed them about college and their majors (“What did you read?” is the proper question.) The Texans were friendly, but on a schedule with wives waiting. John was hitting his drives much straighter today and everyone in the party had something to cheer about once in a while. After the 9th is an old fisherman’s ice house called, The Bothy, that works a snack shoot now. No 13 seemed to go straight uphill. On my third shot, I asked Harry, one of the caddies, how to hit the shot. “Longer than you think and aim right.” And right he was! I was close to the hole and made par, hooray. No. 14 is a par3 from on top of the hill, with great views of the Moray Firth beyond. On the tee of No. 15, I was just moving my trolley when a ball came crashing out of the sky next to me, from the 14th tee box. Another chance to chat with Jim! He thought it very smart to make an arrow out of grass to mark where the ball entered the deep rough.
On No.16 tee, we had to wait as a party of Americans gave us their story. They were walking in from 15, giving up on the game, because they were scheduled to play Castle Stuart that afternoon, and the times were too short. Whoever they paid to schedule their trip, made a huge mistake there. Poor guys. Like characters from “Red Badge of Courage,” they marched wearily and eagerly for their next battle.
Trees on the edges, gorse in the middle, sea views, deep bunkers, and lots of wind—we had it all. Nairn was a good test (as the Scots say) and we loved it. Our view from the restaurant was right over the 18th and putting green. When Jim walked by after his round, he doffed his cap our way. We waved our thanks back.
But the day wasn’t over! We had time to do something that we meant to do yesterday, visit a castle in castle country!! The closest one was Rait Castle. Neither caddie knew about it and the barman said Cawdor (of Macbeth fame) would be better, but we decided on Rait, anyway. But it took a wrong turn to a large estate, with the front door wide open to get us there. Backing up and down the lane, we found a single-track road next to a pasture of cows! John was going to turn back, when we saw etched on a post “Rait Castle” with an arrow. Next came a large gate to keep the cows in. Open close, drive through. Then a path and another cow gate. Then a path and the castle. What a lovely piece of stonework it was!. Just one large hall and one turret without stairs, but the whole thing was tall and majestic. In the long light of afternoon, it seemed to glow.
And that’s how we ended the day. The rest was spent reading, writing, and resting up for tomorrow! See ya then!
Day 8: A Very “Pleasant” Place 8-23-23
Good morning, our time. There are pheasants everywhere on the Westfield property, so John has taken to calling them “pleasants!” Westfield House is a very pleasant and large estate near the Gordonstun School, where Prince Phillip and King Charles both attended. As a matter of fact, Veronica helps out there and often houses parents who come up from England to drop off their children. In the dining room, I counted more than 40 polished silver items on display with lots more around the house in large cabinets. If you like polishing silver, you’ve got a job waiting!
Today was more golf! (And another castle for non-golfing friends.) We played Old Moray on the Elgin coast today, a course that we fondly remember from 6 years ago when we were last here. This one is a proper links with the rippling fairways and both shaggy and revetted bunkers. It is also the classic “nine out, nine in” design, by Old Tom Morris.
Today, we had a 2-ball scheduled, but when I started chatting up the young man in the small pro shop, he said he’d ask the fellows behind us to see if they’d join us for a 4-ball. Meanwhile, I went up a steep hill where the clubhouse (that looks like an old yacht club) looks out over the whole course, the sea, and the northern shore beyond. And that’s where the only practice green is and the only practice we’ll have before most rounds in Scotland (practice areas are often hidden away and require you to bring your own balls.) So I rolled some putts with another fellow. Then John came up and I went into the clubhouse for a look around—very much like an old wooden yacht club with little tables, a fine bar, and windows looking out to see and the lighthouse.
When we came back down the hill, the fellow from the putting green removed his hat and stuck out his hand, eager for him and his friend to join us. They were both big fellows, Stewart and Alan, both working the offshore rigs and with thick Scottish brogues. Three weeks out in the North Sea, two weeks at home. Our luck, they love golf and were happy to show us the way. It really makes a difference when a member says, twirling his r’s, “Hug the right side.” Or, on No. 11, “Just bounce it ‘a topa the hill and it’ll roll right da’n.” We’d never know that without a member or a caddie along. These guys were great fun, too. On the first green, after I putted out, Alan asked me what I got. I said, “Why? You want to bet?” He said, “You ask me naw, after I just put my tee shot O.B. Now, it is you wanna bet!” Actually, I didn’t, but we had a good laugh and a friendly game.
We remembered that last time, on the 7th, 8th, and 9th holes, we had to cover our ears when fighter jets took off and landed. Last time, the air force was doing maneuvers and jets were coming and going so quickly that we barely had time to cover our ears before another three or five fighters took off or landed. It was like being underneath an air show. This time, it was gloriously quiet. The guys explained that they did their maneuvers last night—which we heard because Westfield House is right on the path.
The only complaint that John might have about Old Moray is that straight shots are rewarded. Alan lost his ball on the first hole and on a few others as well. John lost lots of nice shots that were just a little off-course. Our group lost at least 30 minutes stomping through tall grass and poking through gorse, but found many more balls than we lost! (We’ll be selling them under a bridge when we get home.)
And another thing about Scottish golf— it’s a walking game. We haven’t seen a buggy (cart) so far in Scotland. Some courses boast of having 3-4 buggies available, but you’re expected to produce a doctor’s note in order to use one. I always rent a trolley (pushcart) and John always carries his bag—so far. These guys used trolleys and were quite impressed with John’s strength all around!
After the game, we all had drinks together in the charming clubhouse, then said our “good luck” and “goodbyes.” John and I had passed Duffus Castle, a stronghold of the Moray family, on the way in and so wanted to stop on the way back and have a good look around. Indeed, we did. It wasn’t in as good of shape as Rait Castle, but much larger and better cared for with mowed grass and a proper moat. We were able to go inside the ruins and marvel at the splendid architecture, though Rait had more detailed window openings.
Just golf course food today… lovely vegetable and sweet potato soup, puréed and spiced to perfection! Good night!
Day 9: New, But Not a Favorite! 8-24-23
Today we said our goodbyes to Veronica and really want to stay in touch as she starts her transition to a smaller house on the property. Her son, Hugh, and his young family will soon take over the large house (8 bedrooms, probably 7,000 square feet). It’s time, she thinks. The house has been in the family for nearly 200 years and always goes to the oldest son. The walls are like a portrait gallery of ancestors and the engraved silver is a testament to achievements. Veronica wore her alligator gloves to breakfast and promised to keep in touch.
From the Westfield House, we stopped by another castle, Brodie Castle. It is big and lovely and has obviously been redone. Sorry, but we’ve been to too many of these and have decided that this time, we’re going to seek out ruins. After a few photos, we headed up the coast to a new course, Fortrose and Rosemarkie Golf Club, across the bridge in Fortrose. On the third fairway, Fort George stands like a castle across the water, quite stunning. The course is lovely, with a view of the sea from every hole. When the wind is whistling, however, accuracy is a must. The fairways are lined with gorse and the rough is quite thick in places. John had too many lost balls and I had two—also, too many! And for John, a really bad moment came when he finally hit a great shot just a little off course where it landed playable but close to the road. As I was hitting, we saw a little red car drive by, stop, back up, then open the door and take his ball! Bad, bad, bad…but funny! There were many good shots and views so, once the yelling stopped, we finished the game with only good memories.
From the 18th, we headed straight to the car to arrive at the Commercial Hotel in Alness. Not a catchy name, I know, but in just the right place to launch off to Royal Dornoch tomorrow morning! We had a very lovely dinner at the nearby Station Hotel. It seemed to be a happening place with lots of people coming and going. The food was great and since we were walking, no problem with the drinks. (Scotland is extremely strict, so it’s better that the driver does not drink at all—especially if negotiating these narrow roads.)
What will be the weather be like for our big day tomorrow? It doesn’t look good. Tune in tomorrow, for the story that’s brewing! Good night.
Day 10: What We’ve been waiting for, plus extra weather! 8-25-23
Today was our big day to play Royal Dornoch GC. This is a game that we paid for months ago and were lucky to get because starting times are so hard to get. This is northern Scotland, but the secret is out. Royal Dornoch is a championship course with a hefty price tag and worth every penny farthing. We arrived three hours early because I wanted to do a bit of shopping in the small town. This is a place absolutely full of culture, from locally made ceramics and fashions, to charming jewelry items and more. I considered a sparkling thistle brooch, but decided to buy a perfect plaid skirt (no kilts for women, by the way. Even with buckles, pleats and a pin, it’s just a skirt.)
So that done, we had an early lunch in the restaurant right above the first tee, right where the webcam is. Anytime you’d like to see the action of Dornoch’s first and second holes, go to the website and check out the webcam actions. Today was predicted to be rainy, but when we started, with our forecaddie Ivor, it was heavily overcast, but not a drop. The course played beautifully, and the putts were rolling until the 9th hole. Then, after our tee shots, it started raining in buckets, as much rain as could drop from the sky. Focusing on shots and putts was hard, but we finished the hole, then ran for shelter at the Halfway House. There, we hung out and chatted with the amusing attendant. We bought Ivor a drink and me a mini bottle of Dornoch whisky—I can now attest that whisky really does warm up a cold day!
When the weather let up, out we went again, but John admitted to being completely soaked and our caddie was now shivering. John put on more clothes, and I dug in my bag and found an extra pair of waterproof gloves for Ivor. It was his birthday, so how thoughtful that I had a small gift for him!
The golf was terrific. Royal Dornoch GC is the kind of course that rewards straight shots and punishes shots off-course. The whole game just flowed. Greens were next to tees, we could see the Dornoch Firth from nearly every hole, and if the weather had been clear, we would have taken fabulous photos.
After the game, we used the club’s “Drying Room” to hang our dripping outerwear. Then after exchanging contact information with Ivor and treating him a Shandy (beer with lemonade) and lunch, we headed back to Alness where our hotel was hosting a traditional music group. An accordion and electric guitar played and sang Scottish and Irish music. We were in the bar just a little after 8 pm and stayed as the bar filled up. John watched rugby on the large screen, and I made friends with the young crowd sitting next to us. What a slice of local life this little bar was! We never go to places like this at home. The music was terrific and the drinking (by others) was constant. One of the slightly older guys danced— not exactly Scottish dance, but it had some steps. There was a table of older folks that usually come in for Sunday brunch, but were here tonight because of a birthday. The little cups of fireball, the pints and pints of lager and other drinks made everyone very friendly. But among the young crowd, all smoked e-cigarettes, and nearly everyone had tattoos and missing teeth. The lack of dentistry in this country is a shame. Good-looking people are missing a front tooth or an eye tooth, or #15 or 25–noticeable problems. Yet no one seems to care. The fellow next to me and his mate (both with great teeth) said he grew up here in Alness. This was a very close group of friends, but a fight almost did break out. Our table nearly turned over when one guy pushed another. I turned away and held on to John, then it stopped. Maybe the big ones have nicer teeth because they win most of the fights??
While the music continued, we slipped out and back to our hotel next door. We could still hear the tunes, so the barman/hotel owner had a chance to tell us why there was music tonight. This is the last Friday of the month when everyone gets paid. Local music attracts local people and us for a very fun evening. Sweet dreams!
Day 11: More bad weather, whisky, and Dracula’s hotel! 8-26-23 (travel day)
Today was a travel day. We meant to go through the Cairngorms National Park, through the highest of the Highlands. Instead, we were diverted (because of roadwork) to the north coast through Keith and Highly. Perfect for whisky tasting so lunch at the Ugie House (don’t you love the Gallic names), we stopped at Glendronach Distillery and tasted the Classic Selection. The first thing that happens at any whisky tasting in Scotland is the inquisition: “Who’s driving?” She waited until John promised to just taste and not drink, which is what he did. We (I) tasted the 12yr, 15yr, 18yr scotch and liked them all, especially with the little round raspberry chocolate that came on the tray! Exceptional, in fact! The 15 yr still retained that whisky edge, but was more flavorful than the 18 yr. We have one bottle on the shelf at home and will bring it out at our next tasting!
From Glendronach, we went in search of today’s lucky castle, Fyvie. The GPS took us to a dirt road with a sign that told us to go back to town. Back at Fyvie, we found signs leading us far and wide. Sadly, when we finally arrived, we found another tourist castle, not what we were after this trip. We took a few pictures, then were back on the road toward the coast and wonderful Cruden Bay.
This rather long drive, was the perfect time to dry out my soggy glove from yesterday. By just wearing it wet, it dried perfectly soft and new in about an hour. And we looked out at all the farmland, sheep, cattle, horses, and more sheep and talked about our grandfathers (John’s a farmer and mine from Glasgow.)
And then the east coast and Kilmarnock Arms, an ancient remodeled castle hotel where Braum Stoker stayed many times, often visiting Slain’s Castle within view and finding the inspiration for “Dracula.” “Come freely. Leave something of the happiness you bring!” Last time, there was a wedding (all the guys in kilts). This time, there is a big party with music! We decided to walk into town by way of the championship course, just across the street, and eat at the clubhouse. (Golf course food is the best!) We stopped at the second green as two guys were chipping up. One nearly made it and the other made his long putt. They noticed us watching and invited us to walk the rest of the course with them for good luck, but we declined.
In the clubhouse, we had a view of the whole course and the inner St. Olaf course where a battle was fought and won long ago and Slain’s Castle ruin in the distance. We could see players finishing holes and even golfing with their dogs along! The course is amazing and if we can play without another downpour, we’ll be so grateful! Meanwhile, good night.
Day 12: Cruden Bay’s St. Olaf Course 8-27-23
This morning started with haggis for breakfast, and a good slice too! Each region and chef has their own recipe. This one was not as spicy as the last, but tasty with eggs and a mushroom!
From breakfast, we went down to the course. Today, we played the St. Olaf GC course which is 9 holes inside the championship course which runs mostly along the sea. The St. Olaf course is so named because the great battle between the Danes and the Scots in 1012 ended in such loss of life, that both sides decided on a truce. The Danes dedicated the land to St. Olaf and built a chapel there. That’s now where the nicest golf course in all of Eastern Scotland lies, Cruden Bay and St. Olaf.
This course has enough land for a proper driving range and a huge practice putting and chipping green and probably another golf course as well! We used all the practice areas before playing our first 9 today. St. Olaf is a challenging course with lots of elevation and gorse to keep you focused. The greens aren’t large, but they’re well-designed and tricky. I quizzed the pro about #6 which I remembered from 4 years ago, hitting the perfect second shot and never finding it over the hill. Blind shots are always a problem!
On the 5th fairway, we met up with the fellows behind us playing down the 4th. We had talked to them briefly earlier, so John was comfortable asking a question. The answer came in about ten minutes of golf politics and how the club is spending too much on changes that they can’t afford. Apparently, overspending is a big deal up here.
After our first nine, we had lunch (more yummy golf course food!) when a fellow at the next table came over and pointed to John, “I know you!” And indeed he did! It was Roy from the bar in Kingussie, escaping the singing golfers to talk to John. Roy had a great time with John and was very glad to see him again. We recounted our adventures and took a photo. Scotland is a small country!
After our second nine, we did a bit of driving around, then ended up back at the hotel where there was plenty going on. Today, on the lawn next to Kilmarnock Arms, there were duck races down the Cruden Waters River! And jumping rooms, lots of food, and music. It was a Sunday Fair for kids, mostly— so Highland Games for kids?
At dinner, we were ushered into The Snug, a special small party room at our hotel dedicated to Bram Stoker, with his dedication in the hotel registry. We were just ordering drinks when another couple asked if they could photograph the pictures on the walls. After a few pictures and a chat, we asked them to join us for a drink. The man, Brian, was from Ireland originally, but he and Linda now live in Kilmarnock, down by Alloway near Glasgow, Robert Burns country. We had a good cultural discussion with lots of laughter, then went our separate ways.
Tomorrow is the championship course. We’re ready and the weather looks hopeful. See you then! Good night.
Day 13: Cruden Bay, The Championship Course, and our very Scottish caddie. 8-28-23
Our game wasn’t until 1 pm, so we started the day with a walk along the Cruden Waters River, then down a tree-covered path, up a gently sloping field through overcast skies to a great view of the North Sea. There we saw the ruins of New Slain’s Castle which was a strong influence for “Dracula.” Just lovely. Returning, we drove a short way to Peterhead and considered playing the Peterhead course tomorrow, but with all the negative reviews from our Scottish acquaintances, we are rethinking that plan. Stay tuned as we consider other courses!
We asked for a caddie yesterday and were delighted that the starter could find someone so quickly. Caddies are not on staff and don’t hang out waiting for a loop at many courses in Scotland. Instead, they are mostly members who supplement their dues (as high as 1,000 pounds annually) by caddying for foreigners. There caddie fees are very affordable which makes for a good deal all around!
Today our caddie was Ellis (25 years old, a good golfer, and a member at Cruden Bay). He was quite pleased with first our tee shots and proceeded to run between us all day long, telling us where to hit and how to roll our putts. Apparently, we were pretty good at following directions, because he sure shouted “Good Shot!” a lot!!
Even though Cruden Bay GC is a terrific links course designed by Old Tom Morris, there are a few blind shots—can’t see the fairway over the dune or can’t see the pin from your approach, also over a dune. There are dunes everywhere, because this course is right above the beach. The best view from any tee in Scotland is from the 9th tee at Cruden Bay (they won the award) and the textures of grasses are amazing from everywhere. There is plenty of gorse, but landing in the tall grass is just as bad. Stay on the fairway if you’d like to see your ball again!
And the little burn that runs in front of #10 and then wiggles around the middle of #13 is so charming. See the photos below! We met up with the couple in front of us on #15, on the blind par three. He duffed his ball into a hill. She hit a gorgeous iron 190 yards. After the game, we had drinks with them. They’re from Alloway, England, in the Lake District, and thoroughly loved the course. So two more votes for Cruden Bay.
We exchanged contact information with our caddie. He would love to host us next time we’re in town— he says, because we followed his directions so well. That’s very nice of him. After the round, John was so pleased with his game that he told me, “I had a great game.” And a bit later, “Did I tell you? I shot a low score!” And a little later, “My best game in Scotland, ever!” So Ellis earned his pay and John is a happy golfer!!
After a delicious dinner at Cruden Bay, we found a quiet crowd at Kilmarnock Arms. No duck races or loud parties… just a few of us and the ghost of Bram Stoker looking for his room…ooooo… Good night.
Day 14: Newburgh Ythan and the harbor 8-29-23
This morning, we still had not decided where to play golf. Isn’t it nice to have that decision to make? We could go to Aberdeen and play Kingslinks or Balenkask, but John was not keen on driving into Aberdeen at all after reading just one of the Cold Granite murder mysteries by Stuart McBride. (So many murders in Aberdeen!)
So, on our way through lovely fields full of sheep and past an old church, we saw a turn-off for Newburgh Ythan (new-burra-eye-than) a course we played 6 years ago. John did not have happy memories, but since I had an eagle on the 4th hole, I thought this a perfect place for us—especially since the sun was shining and this was far from Aberdeen and all those murders!
A stop in at the pro shop and we had just enough time to warm up (no driving range) and putt a few before teeing off. The course was exactly as I remembered (lovely and hard) and as John remembered (full of gorse and awkward shots! He hit plenty of great shots, but didn’t like the number of balls he lost (4 on the front, 2 on the back.) So, we had a good time and took lots of pictures of the fabulous views.
After golf, we went back to Cruden Bay for lunch (such a lovely menu) where I introduced myself to Elaine. I had called her to arrange our tee time, but had never met her before. We had a lovely reunion and laughed about an observation I’d made that she corroborated. All the office managers at all the best courses are named Elaine! (It’s true—“Elaine” works at Crail Golf Club, Dornoch, Kingsbarns, and Cruden Bay, of course!) We had a great laugh and then a serious discussion about all the proposed golf course changes.
Back at the hotel, we waited for the rain to stop, then took a walk down to the harbor which is across the street and along the river, with views of the golf course and the sea. It was late afternoon and the lighting was perfect for a few photos. There were summer houses along the estuary, thick grasses leading up to the golf course, and colorful boats waiting for tide to rise. Dogs, joggers, and cawing seabirds… just lovely. Good night.
Day 15: Moving Day and an Open course! 8-30-23
Today was moving day. Tomorrow is St. Andrews so the goal was to drive down the coast and arrive in Fife before bedtime. On the way, we made our way past sheep ranches and grain farms. Everything loves the weather and grows beautifully here. So green, so sparkling, and the sheep so white. They’ve all just been sheared actually so that their fleeces can be used and the sheep can breathe easy through the warmer months.
Meanwhile, we were wearing extra layers ourselves because it was clear and cold out. As we drove, we chatted about possible plans. Shall we stop in Carnoustie GC (Championship) just to see the place again? (We came here on our first trip and played the Burnside Course where John lost so many balls in the deep rough, right next to the fairway, that I consoled him by buying a basket of old balls from the bartender!) We had memories to cherish here. Then we could visit Panmure and Monifieth.
Inside the new clubhouse, we walked right into the pro shop with the goal of buying a memory and leaving. I saw the practice bays next door. For 10 pounds you can play Carnoustie on a simulator. That gave John an idea. “Just ask,” he nudged. So I asked— they said yes! Forget all other plans. We had a tee time — for this most famous British Open venue.
I didn’t start this off right. Today was meant to be a “golf-off” day because we’re both groaning (just a bit) and stiff (a bit more) from traveling, nothing major—but, as soon as we got a tee time, I had visions of undulating hills and chip shots bouncing close and stopping near the hole. We were both strong and vibrant again!
The day was bright, the breeze was light, and Rodney (our forecaddie) was the caddie master—we had the best! #1 was over a burn, then shot it straight up the fairway. Rodney made his way between us and helped us sink putts. Just wonderful. #6 is called Hogan’s Alley—OB on the left, bunkers on the right. We both ended up near the bunkers, hit great second shots, on in 3, and into the hole (watch out for the bunkers.) Somewhere along the way, Rodney explained that we got a tee time because the air traffic controller problem in Edinburgh had meant lots of tee time cancellations. Ah ha.
#9 was a gorgeous par 5 with bunkers guarding the undulating green. We chipped and putted and made a score! Onward to #10. The pace was a bit slow today, but we kept up nicely. #10 is a beautiful hole with the burn wrapping around the green, a sweet bridge crossing, and a big tree right on the other side. Behind the green is a snack shop and bathrooms. Right as John was chipping up from behind the tree, the rain started. Light at first, then serious. Out came the jackets and funny hats. Even Rodney had waterproofs hidden in his caddie bib.
A few holes through the rain, then came 13 with a bunker that looked like two eyes and big nose between. Darling. (We both ended up in it.) 14 had all sorts of instructions around the green. There are two bunkers on the right and a bunker hidden behind them. Stay left.
The game was lovely despite the rain. Rodney knew everyone and loved telling Jean Vandeveld stories (the 1999 British Open, he gave away a big lead on 17.) He showed us the burn where Vandeveld took his shoes off to wade in to the water. The story went rogue after that. He ended up in deep rough, hitting over the green, and giving up first place. We loved the stories and the golf and so stayed for dinner.
In the twilight, we zoomed our car down the road to the famous Golf Hotel, 400 years old and full of history. It’s not luxurious anymore, but it’s comfortable. We found the bar and hung out a bit— completely charming. Until tomorrow, good night.
Day 16: St. Andrews and a stop at Kingsbarns 8-31-23
We were a little worried at breakfast. I had written on our calendar that today was the Jubilee Course at St. Andrews, tee time 9:50, but I had no confirmation email. After lingering over my vegetarian haggis (yum!) at breakfast to get to the course on time, we raced to the starter with 20 minutes to spare, stood in a short line, and found out that indeed, we had no starting time. Oh dear. Lest anyone think I am a scheduling genius, there was finally a problem. I thought I had booked the course, but I hadn’t.
But I am also a first-class schmoozer so in about a minute, we had a starting time on the course we expected to play, the Jubilee Course, in one hour! (This might have been due to the air traffic kerfuffle just like yesterday, but I’ll take credit anyway.) The short wait until our new starting time was perfect for securing a forecaddie for today’s round. After so many trips to Scotland, we’re finding that playing with a local or hiring a forecaddie really helps for happier golf.
Now, a look around St. Andrews… it is like no other place because it is so massive. The road to the parking lot took us right around the giant first and 18th fairways of the Old Course. From the balcony of the restaurant and pro shop, we looked down on the New Course tee box, the Old Course second and 17th holes, and to the left, the Himalayas, a giant undulating putting green for which they charge admission. In short, there is lawn everywhere left, right, and straight ahead. It’s all golf course. On the distant fringes are the classical buildings of the town of St. Andrews, framing the whole view. It is so picturesque that one almost forgets to look the other way, out to sea! The ocean is right there.
Gavin was our young forecaddie and a delight. He kept our balls in play, found the off-course shots, and directed our putts. The Jubilee Course is lovely and with very little gorse, (a super prickly plant that defines fairways all over Scotland.) Memorable holes were the third with a tree off to the right of the fairway, the 12th, with the dogleg at the end of the fairway, making the approach a mandatory pitch shot, the 13th with the deep swale in front of the green, forcing a pitch shot to a tricky pin and the final hole with three shallow bunkers in front of the green. Besides the fun of just being here was the clear and sunny weather— all day. No rain!
After golf, we ate at the clubhouse (golf course food is the best) and then did a little shopping in the town of St. Andrews. On the way back to Crail, we stopped at Kingsbarns for a look around. We had two lovely rounds here on our last trip, but a visit to the shop is all we did this trip. We remembered our great shots and the great holes here, in this beautiful setting.
The bar action tonight was a slice of local color. People ordered shandys, pints of Tennants, pino, or a dram of Famous Grouse. We shared an Old Pulteney, 12 yr and listened to the audio. What were they saying? Bar time is so entertaining in Scotland!
Tomorrow, we’re considering a boat ride to the Isle of May and a visit to the fishery museum. Good night!
Day 17: We drove north, not south* 9-1-23
We had every intention of taking the boat tour to the Isle of May, but this morning I could tell that John did not love the idea. “Do you really want to take a boat ride for an hour and a half, walk around the island for two hours, and then…” he asked. The magic of the idea had faded. But we vowed to do The Scottish Fisheries Museum later in the day. For sure!
On the way north, we pulled off at Kingsbarns Whisky distillery. Kingsbarns is a new distiller, so their main product is gin (easy fast and a good start for the whisky biz), but they do have some young whisky. The fellow serving the tastes (for free!) was German, and very helpful. He explained each Scotch and helped us identify the nose (aroma) of each sample. I checked the color, sniffed, nodded, then sipped and nodded again. (Looks very professional.) Since this scotch was just 5 years old (not 12, 15, or 18 years like others), it was sharp. And since scotch does not continue aging in the bottle, this was not worth buying. We took sips of cask-strength whisky (92 proof, not 80 proof) which was milder and tastier. The gins were much more fun and I had a little fun with our German friend, to test his sense of humor. He poured a taste of gin, I smelled it, swirled it, then held it up to look at the color. (No color? There never is.) No laugh either. Hmm. But it was delicious so we picked one out to take home as a gift! And in ten years, however, Kingsbarns whisky will be a tasty one!
From there, we went to the far end of St. Andrews’s where the Eden and Strathtyrum Courses are “just to have a look.” Strathtyrum was hosting some Walker Cup players who were practicing for the competition starting tomorrow, so the only possibility was the Eden Course. The Walker Cup (between the States and GB and I)is on at St. Andrews Old Course this weekend. People, tents, and tall camera cranes are everywhere! Check it out on Golf Channel for a glimpse of how big the Old Course really is! Meanwhile, we waited like orphans for one of the many 2-ball groups to choose us to complete their foursomes— which would be our only chance for golf today.
We watched as group after group teed off, thinking we might end up on the Isle of May after all, when two women came up and introduced themselves. Lucky John with the three of us! They claimed not to be very good, but hit great drives and terrific approach shots. Lots of inside knowledge was a huge help here.
The Eden Course is not the classic nine out and nine back. Nine actually ends back at one. No. 2 and 3 are right against the Eden Estuary. No. 7 is also has a lovely view. At 9, Margaret and Jackie left to take care of grandchildren, while we went on. Ten starts with a par 3 and stays close to the water with 14 and 15 wrapping around a reed pond. The fellows behind us told to watch out for Scottish alligators on that hole! Eden is a lovely course with gentle hills and greens tucked into some of those hills. The day was gorgeous, with blue skies. No clouds or rain all day!
By the time we finished, it was just 30 minutes too late to make it to the Scottish Fisheries Museum (ahh) so while we waited for a snack in the restaurant, we watched the virtual tour of the museum on YouTube. If you’d like to see this terrific museum narrated in very Scottish English, check out the tour on Youtube!
Back at the hotel, we took a walk down to the “most photographed harbor in all of Scotland,” they say. We wandered by the old Marine Hotel where we found emergency lodgings four years ago and amazingly, the owner is still alive! He was sitting in front of the hotel, sadly still inebriated, just as we remembered him. We said hello and thanked him for his help before, then down to the shore and the castle wall (no castle) along the sea. At the point where we would take the narrow road to the harbor, we met a man with a spyglass looking out to sea. I stopped to talk to him about what “those white things out there are” and he explained that it was a wind farm at sea. A chain of small man-made islands were meant to bring power to the shore. One wind turbine was almost erected. We marveled at the engineering and had a pleasant chat.
No time for the whole walk, we hurried back to our dinner reservation. Inside the hotel, we looked in on the 300-year-old bar (still crowded!) and ate at a table in the Waterloo dining room in front of a giant mural celebrating Napoleon. Why Napoleon? The first owner of the Golf Hotel was one of his officers, who ended up doing very well. More surprises tomorrow! Good night!
Day 18: Castle to castle 9-2-23
After a breakfast of haggis, eggs, and beans, we left the wonderful Golf Hotel and Crail. Our morning waitress gave me a parting gift—the news that I could get canned haggis in any market and take it home with me. That is seriously good news indeed!
That along with the tip from the shop next door will give us one more castle on our list. She suggested we visit a “wee castle” in Anstruther on our way out of town, guaranteeing it wouldn’t take much time. She gave us the name and the postal code because, “If ye follow the sat nav, you’ll end up all wrong,” she said. So, we entered her directions precisely onto my phone app and ended up at a farm at the end of a single-track road with horses over the fence and a big tractor coming right at us! No “wee castle” here! John whipped the car into reverse and off we went, the other way up the single-track road. Just down the street and “next door” to this farm was another road with a gate and posted National Heritage sign and in small letters, “Kellie Castle.” A small sign for a “wee castle.” We took the road and found quite an impressive castle with an abbreviated turret and a lot of decorative touches. In the shop, we chatted with the volunteer who said the tours would start in 7 minutes, but we decided to tour the garden instead, sticking to our plan to only tour castle ruins this trip.
The gardens were lovely—with lawns and walkways and lots of low hedges and flower borders. There was a secret garden with a statue and a bench and lots of paths up and down the rows. I sat in the center on the edge of a statue reading a new children’s book, “I’ve Got a Hole in My Bagpipe” while John took more photos. A lovely start to the day!
The drive to Edinburgh was just fine and mostly through neighborhoods, then over the Queensferry Bridge and through more neighborhoods. Traffic coming out of town was stacked and slow, but our way was steady. As we neared The Grosvenor Gardens Hotel, we fretted about parking. Per an earlier email, our host had said to use Just Park, an app system that allows you to pay for parking on your phone. I bought all the nights we needed, then learned that we could park across the street at the music school. For future trips, Just Park is a great app, but sadly they do not give refunds.
After the tour through this wonderful, older, but beautifully maintained hotel, we settled in, then headed out. It was just a short way to Princess Street, where we’d never been before. We were looking at the back side of the Edinburgh Castle and a huge wall of sheer rock. Quite formidable! With all the jagged edges and staircases, the castle looked like an impenetrable M.C. Escher creation.
But no more castles today. We were on a journey to find a lovely meal. John took us right to The East End Brasserie, a lovely restaurant with terrific ceilings, decor, and food. Lamb for me! Our lunches were absolutely lovely as was the view of the castle.
After lunch, another great surprise! We found the Waterstones Bookstore, which must be the most wonderful bookstore in all of Scotland! Three floors up a lovely wooden staircase, plus a basement! The first book I picked up was about witch monuments in Scotland. As soon as I peeked at page one, one of the clerks came right over to testify that this was her favorite book in the shop. Indeed, it was a poetic tour of Scotland and page one was very well written. On other tables were the latest Ian Rankin, the new Skinner mystery, and book after book on Scottish things like sheep, seals, sea cliffs, and shadowlands. The tables and shelves were filled in this huge, yet charming bookshop. Knowing I couldn’t pack everything I wanted, we decided to return on Monday for a second look. I wonder if the Scottish Tour of Witches is the real me??
So, no golf today, but a good look at two castles, great dining, and lots of books!
Good night!
Day 19: Carluke Golf Course and a Reunion 9-3-23
Today was “Reunion Day” with Peter, our third friend in Scotland (after Karen and Anne.) We met him on the Dunbar golf course ten years ago and always make it a point to see him once a trip, catch up on Scottish politics, his family, and golf! Sadly, his arms were recently injured so he wasn’t able to play but a few holes, but he walked around with us and none of us had a heart attack on 12 which is named “Hill ‘o Hope” for its steep walk up a grassy cliff! Apparently, a usual comment at the top is, “Where’s the defibrillator?”
Carluke Golf Course is in between Edinburgh and Glasgow and not far from either (this is a small country). It’s a parkland course with grass, trees, and traditional bunkers. This one is built on the side of a hill, so every shot needs to be played for the bounce to stay on the fairway. Luckily, we had Peter along to give us directions for nearly every shot. (We paid him in food and drink after the round.) A little like Granton on Spey, this course doubles over on itself in a couple of places. The fairway of 3 crosses over the fairway of 4 and the same with 8 and 9. Very interesting course layout, actually, and great use of land. Hole 11 is a par three hit from a height, down to a guarded green with a lovely river running behind it. And truthfully, if Peter weren’t with us, we might have often wandered to the wrong tee! But it was a beautiful day and a lovely course! And the day was warm—I didn’t need either my second jacket or fuzzy hat. A particular highlight was when Peter recited several lines from Robert Burns’s “Address to a Haggis” as we walked along on 4 th hole.
After the game, we ate at the golf course. Drinks first and a bit more talk. Peter is very pro-Scotland, which means he’s for Scottish independence and even participated in the march in Edinburgh yesterday, with bagpipes so it must have been big! This is all internal stuff that we have no opinion on, but he is also anti-Brexit. I think his ideal is for Scotland to be independent, but part of the EU, which is the feelings of a lot of people living in the highlands. The problem is that all of Scotland has only 5 million people and only 8% of the total UK population. Someone once said they have more sheep than people— which from all we saw, is probably true!
Peter is quite serious about Scottish politics, but he did let out a funny one in his exasperation: “He/they/whoever is about as useful as a fart in a spacesuit!” It didn’t matter what he said after that. I was laughing too hard to hear! We wish him well, good health, and more tears of golf. I gave him a gift that we’d brought from home when it was hugging time. Soon we were back on the road going in and out of turning circles— “Take the second exit,” said our GPS. “Take the first exit,” “Take the third exit.” This system is terrific for keeping traffic moving. The roads wound and twisted until we were on the “dual carriageway” which is like a small freeway, and back into the city again where we spent a few minutes loading our golf bags into our bag covers so that we were packed and ready to fly in two days. I guess that means no golf tomorrow. So what else is in store? Stay tuned. Good night.
Day 20: The Town and the Tours 9-4-23
Today was our big day for Edinburgh. We were going to be proper tourists, poking in all the shops and taking a couple of scheduled tours. The first thing was to arrange transportation. Mrs. Chung, our hostess, has been very kind. This morning after breakfast with the couple from Zimbabwe, who gave us a couple of well-researched tips, she took us to the corner and pointed us in the direction of the street cars. We bought m-tickets on our phones and were good for the day. We could come and go as often as we please for the same low price. It was a good feeling.
The castle loomed overhead, so that’s the direction we headed. First stop was the National Gallery of Scotland, art. Here they have paintings by Peter Paul Rubéns, Gainsborough, Botticelli, Zubaran, and more. There were lots of Scottish artists and subjects about Scotland. One room of triptychs seemed so much like the Norton Simon, I was almost seeing double. The museum was fabulous, but we finally moved on. After all, we had tickets.
A little more shopping on the Royal Mile, a stop at Starbucks to check in for our departure tomorrow, and we are ready for Mary King’s Close Tour. Edinburgh is full of secrets beneath the streets. There are dungeon tours and haunted tours and many others because the present city was built upon a previous city. Below these streets are more streets. It’s rather spooky, actually. We choose the most historical tour— according to our Zimbabwe friend. This was a guided tour by a young man calling himself, Dr. Pelicious, a plague doctor. He took us through rooms of the rich and the poor, all below street level. The poor lived 16 to a room. The richest of the rich had an indoor toilet which was called “The Thunder Box.” Everyone else seemed to use a bucket which they pitched out on the street with the warning call of, “Beware the guardy loo!” All in good fun, but it was certainly a different time!
My favorite part of the tour was the bits of real medicine. One doctor examined patients by testing their urine. He had his ways of detecting diabetes, in fact. Another doctor could truly treat the Bubonic plague with lancing and cauterizing. Still, another, dressed all in leather and. wearing a raven’s beak, treated plague victims without ever contracting it himself—because of his all-leather PPE!
That tour done, we wandered the Mile to our next tour, the Whisky Experience. This was a tour that came highly rated, so even though we already knew a thing or two about whisky, we decided to take it. The most marvelous part of this tour was the 3,000 bottles of unopened whisky purchased from a private collector in Brazil. That was an amazing room. We were also given a scratch and sniff card so we could match the “nose” of our samples with the card. We might have been over-served by the end of the tour (ah-hem), but since we’d kept the second halves of our lunches, we were able to sit a while over sandwiches and Diet Coke, chatting with a couple of men from Indiana until it was time to go back to the room. The streetcar took us by the lovely view of the Edinburgh castle, high above the basalt cliff. One last look.
Back in our room, we pushed and pushed to pack everything in our luggage, so thankful that we packed our golf bags last night. Tomorrow, we fly. See you all soon!
We started with a gorgeous breakfast and new guests in the dining room of
Scotland, Day 21: The plane, the plane 9-5-23
Noticed a very tall young man.
Traded seats with him because if his knees. Became friends.
15 Aday Mara C 7-3 240 Fr. Zaragoza, Spain / IES El Picarral
Movies on the plane:
Champions
Sense and sensibility
What’s love got to go with it
Golf Courses ‘23:
- Gifford
- Gullane No. 2
- Boat of Garten*
- Grant on on Spey*
- Nairn Dunbar
- Nairn
- Old Moray (Moray Coast)
- Fortrose and RoseMarkie*
- Royal Dornoch
- St. Olaf at Cruden Bay
- Cruden Bay
- Newburgh Ythan
- Carnoustie
- Jubilee Course
- Eden Course
- Carluke Golf Course