Day 9: The Real Thing, and an Unstuffed Bear!

Today started slow because we were still moving toward our destination of Dundas Harbor. The wind was blowing hard and we’d been tossed around for most of the night (though few noticed it because of the stablizers). So here we were, at 9 am having breakfast and looking forward to meeting a friend of a friend, but with a sudden announcement, all plans flew apart. There was an announcement that because of a polar bear sighting, there would be no shore excursions after all, but the weather balloon launch would still be a go. I dressed for that on deck 6, and John half-dressed for an outing later—maybe.

Sorry about the poor image, but this it. Devon Island, the largest uninhabited island in the world.

Prepared and with binoculars out, surveying the shore, a passenger then spotted a polar bear. This was to be “The Great Polar Bear Show,” as I like to say whenever a zoo animal shows some behaviors. Of course, in the Arctic cold (it has been snowing and is colder here than we ever felt in Antarctica), everyone was scrambling for jackets, hats, gloves, pants…but John and I were already dressed, though in different places. I ran to the bow and hung out with about 8 others, all with binoculars, all helping each other spot the yellowish, brownish, whitish fuzzy fellow.

This is the kind of terrain that we were scanning for polar bears.

Pretty soon, we were watching “the show” as Mr. Snowy made his way along a very long, snowy coast of Baffin Island. Amble, amble, slog, slog, he went. It wasn’t until I climbed up two more decks, helping people spot him, that he changed his behavior. We were closer to him now, so he sort of looked our way and then ambled a bit, then turned a bit more, and then off and walked, and off he went, still along the coast in full view.

This is the land we were scanning in search of the illusive polar bear.

I texted John and found that he was in our room with our huge picture window down and having a private view— taking scads of photos. I was on deck 6 now, helping other people when Mr. Snowy walked behind a floating iceberg and lay down. Yes, it had been a long walk. That’s when I decided it was show-over and I’d stay for the balloon launch. Nice. Another weather balloon is heading toward shore, right over Mr. Snowy’s head. (So that’s the way the wind is blowing, ah huh.)

In the room, John had the window back up and was looking at his pictures when we checked our schedule for the day. It had been updated. We were in the first group to go on the zodiac, not for a wet landing, but a tour of the bay. In 15 minutes! Luckily, we were already dressed. (Check yesterday’s blog for the clothing layers needed here.) We weren’t last and so got in the second boat going out. Right away, we had special instructions. Our driver, Thomas, told us that he had a pistol and a rifle and that he was trained to use both if needed. We were going to go as a caravan up close to see the polar bear.

Here he is, up from his nap, sniffing the air, trying to say, “hi.”

By traveling close together, our 7 zodiacs looked big to him, so he would be less likely to attack, and we could get closer. John took a few photos. I tried not to freeze. Sure enough, he was right where we left him, resting behind the serpent-shaped iceberg. When we approached, however, he poked his nose in the air and was on his feet. He could hear us a little, but smell us a lot. He wasn’t aggressive, just curious as he moved his head this way and that to get a better sniff—and the pictures… so good, thanks to John, and Mr. Snowy for posing in all the traditional ways.

Mr. Snowy is posing for us.

We watched him for about 15 minutes, when he decided that we weren’t close enough to eat and the wrong color anyway (everyone in red jackets), so he ambled away up the hill, wiggling his cute bear tail behind him. Thomas told us then that that was the best bear sighting of the season in any of the ships and that we should not gloat to other passengers, because they would be lucky to see a sleeping musk ox on their zodiac trips.

Looking for musk ox. Luckily, I’ve seen one…on my plate yesterday. Eweeee.

Those black lumps in the show are each a musk ox. Polar bears don’t bother them because they are fierce when attacked. This seems to be a safe distance.

Icebergs are like clouds. What do you see in this one? A stegosaurus or a fish, perhaps?

Lunch was in there somewhere, on the 6th deck, outdoor BBQ with a crew member who knew that we golfed in Nuuk. So did he—with the captain! So we traded stories and talked golf. We then had a speedy, but wonderful, Special Operations Boat ride out to see two sleeping musk ox groupings and lots of dramatic scenery.

This is what dinner looks like in the Viking “Restaurant.” Very upscale with a modest dress code (though I think David might we wearing flip flops under the table—nobody really cares.)

What next? A daily briefing and a lovely night out with new friends, David and Kathy.