We started the morning late with a phone call from downstairs. We needed to hurry or we’d miss breakfast. Mary is our waitress/cook and whom we remember from all the years we’ve visited here. She cares for her customers and looks just like to cook from “Downton Abbey” maybe even with a similar voice. We were in good hands and the haggis—was delicious. This batch is from Stornaway up in the Outer Hebrides.

With the news that there would be a funeral party here from 2 pm on, we left the hotel in search of an all-day activity. We meant to hang around the golf course because it is so beautiful, but when we got there, we spent most of our time straightening out our tee times.

Cruden Bay is a fabulous Old Tom Morris course built on a battle site, with a second St. Olaf Course built inside the championship course. This is the model at Old Moray as well, also a Tom Morris design. 

The cruise ship had a golf component, which included 40 golfers who left the ship at various ports to play a total of 5 courses on their 13-day cruise (check out Perry Golf.com for more information). We were fine not playing the championship course today—it was crowded, windy, and cold. With all the tourists on the course (ahem), it was looking to be slow as well. When one of the caddies was asked about the pace of play, he scratched his beard and answered, “When they started, I was clean shaven!”

Up at reception, the secretary got us “sorted.” We would play the Championship on Wednesday and avoid both the cruise crowd and tomorrow’s rain. Today, we could play St. Olaf anytime, she said. Then we had a good laugh over the fact that, truly, all the golf course secretaries in Scotland are named Elaine—Dunbar, Crail, Carnoustie, Cruden Bay, and Royal Dornoch—that we know of for sure. There are probably more! She gave me her card so I wouldn’t forget.

The Cruden Bay Clubhouse has got to be one of the loveliest in Scotland. It sits high on a hill overlooking as much of the course as you can see to the north, and as much as you can see to the south. Unlike most Scottish golf courses, there is also a lovely practice range, free to paying guests and members. The putting and chipping areas are equally spectacular, but we walked right past all of it to get to the first tee of St. Olaf. On the way, a couple of older fellows ran by, eager to tee up and get out. We invited them to “Play through.”

St. Olaf is a good and challenging track, with a few holes going south and a few going north. They’ve recently added forward tees, but I opted to play back tees today. #7 is as far out as you’ll get. #8 is a long 4/5 coming back in. And #9 is a tricky par 3. Since half the time was spent playing directly into a strong wind, bogey golf was the best we could do, but it was good Scottish golf.

Back inside, we joined some of the cruise ship golfers in conversation, had a hearty meal, and enjoyed the fabulous view from our window seats looking out at the gently rolling hills of seagrass and the ruins of New Slain’s Castle in the distance. 

Back at Kilmarnock Arms, we found the funeral party breaking up and the smell of smoke dissipating. John decided to reread “Dracula” in honor of Bram Stoker, who was inspired during his several week stay here and view of New Slains to write his greatest work. Good night.