Today was our last day in Munich. We could have left early, but decided to make use of the time and visit one more museum. We chose the NS-Dokumentationszentrum München—The NS Documentation Center.
high schoolers all being escorted by their teacher from station to station. Good for them for being here—and so we skipped a couple of exhibits. John bought the book.
This is in lieu of going to Dachau, and a great history of the rise of the Third Reich. It was truly terrifying how quickly things happened and how well prepared Hitler was to step into a poor and humiliated government.
Above: 1) the gathering place in a memorial for pro-Nazi speeches, later a memorial for the Nazis who had been shot in the Beer Hall Putsch. The test was that if you passed by, you had to do the Nazi salute or be arrested. If you went around the backside, you were sent to Dachau.
The weather was nearly 90 degrees, so after a quick lunch, we decided on two more stops before revisiting the hotel to get our luggage. The Recidencz is a gorgeous palace, thoroughly bombed and completely rebuilt after the war. The blocks of stone have now been painted to look like it once was. (More trompe-l’œil) We chose the best exhibition to see—the Crown Jewels, said to be the best in all Europe. Oh, for permission to just try on a heavy crown, or bejewelled necklace, and earrings… oh. Just once!
We also stopped into the Theatine Church, absolutely gorgeous. Right next to where the Beer Hall Putsch memorial had been in Nazi times and where the first political prisoners were rounded up and taken to Dachau. Ironies go deep around here.
Our taxi driver got us to the train station an hour early. That wasn’t the problem. The problem was a terrible accident (averted suicide, apparently) that stopped all trains on our track for some period of time. We stood in long lines, waited on hot tracks, retraced our steps, and finally got on the right train going the right direction. It was a slow train and we hadn’t eaten anything but a small sandwich at the museum, so looking forward to whatever our hostess can cook up for us (I called ahead) and plenty of beer!
We were so happy to see our train to Rothenburg actually waiting for us (and a few others) as we lugged our heavy suitcases off the train, down the stairs, under the tracks, and back up the other side! (I am strong, after all!) and onto the train. I shouted “Danke Schön” as I went by the conductor who was leaning out of his window, smiling at us.
At Rothenberg, the taxi that I ordered in my poor-but-strong German was waiting for us! Off we went at a breakneck speed down cobblestone roads, down absolutely charming streets, missing tourists by inches, racing around corners (were we training for the Grand Prix?) to our darling hotel. Open arms greeted us, and plates of cold meat and cheese and two cold beers were waiting. We sat under big trees outside with lots of tourists in a party court. Rothenberg is going to be a lovely stop for the next few days!
Very fun using my German as much as possible. The stories that Germans would never let Americans stumble through even half a sentence before answering back in English are not true. I’m having a fabulously good time with my bad German! (To the embarrassment of my loved one—though he’s doing pretty well, himself!)