Today was moving day. Tomorrow is St. Andrews so the goal was to drive down the coast and arrive in Fife before bedtime. On the way, we made our way past sheep ranches and grain farms. Everything loves the weather and grows beautifully here. So green, so sparkling, and the sheep so white. They’ve all just been sheared actually so that their fleeces can be used and the sheep can breathe easy through the warmer months.
Meanwhile, we were wearing extra layers ourselves because it was clear and cold out. As we drove, we chatted about possible plans. Shall we stop in Carnoustie GC (Championship) just to see the place again? (We came here on our first trip and played the Burnside Course where John lost so many balls in the deep rough, right next to the fairway, that I consoled him by buying a basket of old balls from the bartender!) We had memories to cherish here. Then we could visit Panmure and Monifieth.
Inside the new clubhouse, we walked right into the pro shop with the goal of buying a memory and leaving. I saw the practice bays next door. For 10 pounds you can play Carnoustie on a simulator. That gave John an idea. “Just ask,” he nudged. So I asked— they said yes! Forget all other plans. We had a tee time — for this most famous British Open venue.
I didn’t start this off right. Today was meant to be a “golf-off” day because we’re both groaning (just a bit) and stiff (a bit more) from traveling, nothing major—but, as soon as we got a tee time, I had visions of undulating hills and chip shots bouncing close and stopping near the hole. We were both strong and vibrant again!
The day was bright, the breeze was light, and Rodney (our forecaddie) was the caddie master—we had the best! #1 was over a burn, then shot it straight up the fairway. Rodney made his way between us and helped us sink putts. Just wonderful. #6 is called Hogan’s Alley—OB on the left, bunkers on the right. We both ended up near the bunkers, hit great second shots, on in 3, and into the hole (watch out for the bunkers.) Somewhere along the way, Rodney explained that we got a tee time because the air traffic controller problem in Edinburgh had meant lots of tee time cancellations. Ah ha.
#9 was a gorgeous par 5 with bunkers guarding the undulating green. We chipped and putted and made a score! Onward to #10. The pace was a bit slow today, but we kept up nicely. #10 is a beautiful hole with the burn wrapping around the green, a sweet bridge crossing, and a big tree right on the other side. Behind the green is a snack shop and bathrooms. Right as John was chipping up from behind the tree, the rain started. Light at first, then serious. Out came the jackets and funny hats. Even Rodney had waterproofs hidden in his caddie bib.
A few holes through the rain, then came 13 with a bunker that looked like two eyes and big nose between. Darling. (We both ended up in it.) 14 had all sorts of instructions around the green. There are two bunkers on the right and a bunker hidden behind them. Stay left.
The game was lovely despite the rain. Rodney knew everyone and loved telling Jean Vandeveld stories (the 1999 British Open, he gave away a big lead on 17.) He showed us the burn where Vandeveld took his shoes off to wade into the water. The story went rogue after that. He ended up in deep rough, hitting over the green, and giving up first place. We loved the stories and the golf, and so stayed for dinner.
In the twilight, we zoomed our car down the road to the famous Golf Hotel, 400 years old and full of history. It’s not luxurious anymore, but it’s comfortable. We found the bar and hung out a bit— completely charming. Until tomorrow, good night.