Today wow! We met at 8:30 AM and were on the road to the Petra entrance across the street. Our guide, Salah, walked with us slowly down the pitched trail,  toward the rocky outcroppings that were like the beginning of a gentle valley. As we looked closer, we could see lots of caves, and even some carvings in the rock. Salah explained that the Nabataeans did not live in caves and that all of the holes we saw in the rock were actually tombs. The writing was in both Greek and Aramaic and may be the only writing we saw all day.

We stopped and took way too many pictures. There was so much more to go. Around a few more corners, we got to the Siq, which was the beginning of the beginning of the slot canyon. Here, the walls of the two sides of the path rose 60 to 80 feet, and the space between the walls ranged from 10 to 30 feet. There’s plenty of traffic even though tourism is way down, and with Salah leading the way, we had no claustrophobia. We learned about flood control, water pipes, and dams. The Nabataeons were amazing engineers. 

Two and a half miles later, Salah stopped us. He told us to face up the hill and then cross the path. Then he directed us to look back at the slot Canyon where the light was just coming in beautifully. We were all taking pictures of the rock perfectly lit against the sky, when he told us to turn around, turn around, turn around. It was a trick. When we looked up again, we saw the very top corner of the treasury at Petra, the big reveal of the Treasury. Sal got the reaction he wanted. Ooos and aaas! 

The treasury was another tomb, but it was completely carved into the sandstone. Salah explained that it was curved from the top down, and that everything was perfectly engineered and designed with intricate detail. The Nabataeans did these structures over and over again in smaller dimensions all the way down the canyon.

After recovering from the awe of this site, our little party continued down the next area, which was considered the Road of Façades. Here we saw more examples of the rock face carving in great morning light. Thanks to Salah, we saw everything at its best. Next, we came to the restaurant where we could stop for lunch if we wanted to or continue on to the even taller monument, the Monastery. Most of us decided to skip lunch and head up the trail. The vote was fairly unanimous to take donkeys. Salah negotiated with the donkey manager so that we could all ride for a certain price. The decision was to ride up and walk back. Even John got on a donkey. I was amazed!

I got the E-ticket ride when someone kicked one of the wild dogs, and the dog spooked my donkey just as my handler had let go of the reins.  My donkey turned around and took off down the canyon at full speed. There were rocks everywhere as he darted to the right, the left, and the right again, going this way and that, and with me screaming and holding on to the saddle with my hands and knees. I’d like to say it was a thrill, but it was pretty scary. I’m not sure everyone would’ve survived, but somehow I stayed on. More impressive, those guys convinced me to continue riding the donkey all the way up the trail! The trail, by the way, was all rock with ancient steps carved out by the Nabataeans. It was probably 15 minutes by donkey. I’m still in a bit of shock, very happy to be alive, and amazed that I am that strong. To hell with that last birthday. I’m really only 35!

When we dismounted our donkeys, we still had another half-mile on the stone passageway, and illegal vendors were trying to sell us their wares. (I gave out a lot of dollars and smiles.) Since I needed change to pay John’s donkey driver, I bought some fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice, which was worth the experience of watching the woman squeeze the juice with her mechanical machine. Money to women is never wasted.

The monastery was worth all the trouble (though maybe not broken bones!). It was a third again as big as the treasury and not as detailed, but gorgeous to look at in a huge open space.

Our group unanimously decided to walk back down, fairly sure that the return donkey ride would be treacherous. There’s nothing to stop a horse headed for the barn (or… a donkey)! The total distance from the entrance of Petra to the top of the monastery was probably about three and a half miles— one way.

Our little party reconvened at a place called “The Cave,” which was actually in a Nabataean cave that has been shaped into a bar and restaurant. It was a very cool place to have a drink.

What a fabulous day— and another one coming tomorrow— though, hopefully without stunts!