Day 10: Below Zero C, The Entire Franklin Expedition dies

Beechy Island is just peachy— if you’re a bird. They are loving it here! We, however, are freezing. As did the Franklin Expedition in 1845/47 as they came through on their way to the elusive North-west Passage. Sadly, four men died here of tuberculosis, and the a few more along the way, then the rest after starvation and resorting to cannibalism. They are celebrated for their bravery, but not their accomplishments, because they were never able to report anything back. The story has been resurrected in the last few years because the Erebus, one of the fated ships, was found at the bottom of a bay in 2014 and made more famous by a book called “Erebus” by Michael Palin, of Monty Python fame. Though certainly a genius comedian, he has a serious side and produces scholarly work in this delightful book about the ship’s entire career.

This picture snagged from Wikipedia. Supposedly rendered from a scene in Antarctica.

So glad to have searched through my vast glove collection for a new combination that seems to be holding. My phone is another problem because taking my gloves off in order to fiddle with my phone is not a good idea. I had to come up with something new. The stark and frigid scenery is so gorgeous that there are spectacular views everywhere!

Lunch had to be warm. I had the bouillabaisse, then John brought over two chocolate gelatos. Perfectly lovely.

Musk Ox shedding. To use the wool, a hunter needs to carefully follow behind the musk ox and gather it from the ground

One of the very lively and knowledgeable Brits gave a short talk on the Musk Ox, to which I said to John, “I had him for lunch,” (ha ha), but today we saw a few on shore yesterday as lumps in the show. Wow. What great beasts, and so glad they are flourishing in these parts despite the often frozen vegetation. It’s all about adaptability. Interesting fact, though they look a lot like bison, they are more closely related to the goat and have fur that can be collected between seasons when the animals molt. Terrifically warm and waterproof, legal and super soft. What’s not to love?

Link to fabulous hand-knit items, some from musk ox qiviut. Chat with Margaret about shipping options in these tariff times! https://www.mountainmasche.com/product-page/mittens-mayne-island-pure-qiviut

Think super warm and cozy and softer than cashmere. And Christmas is coming— or a birthday perhaps?

After the very short show, we heard over the loudspeaker that the seas had calmed enough for operations to start up again. We raced to our cabin to don all our gear (an exhausting effort) and bring extra gloves, this time. I put my camera in my waterproof pouch, hoping for better luck with photography because having to take gloves off in below-zero (C) weather is risky.

This is almost funny— so much to wear and taking the room binoculars, too! Big gloves are stuffed in his pocket, heavy knee-high waterproof boots, and the yellow hood will finish off the Arctic look.

But ooo eee, it was even colder than expected. And going full speed toward the cliff at Beechy Island. I expected John to be taking all the photos, but through the wind and ice, he shouted, “Lens is frozen. You’ll have to be the photographer!” Ok, new plan to work. With the phone around my neck, I took one glove off long enough to cue up the camera, then started looking for shots. The cliff face was fabulous, as was the stark beach where the Franklin Party graves were. Click click, aim, and touch the screen— with my nose. It worked beautifully.

We zoomed to the cliff edge, then back to the ship (sigh of pending warmth), but what? Past the ship to the far shore, where we were treated to great swarms of birds feeding near a rapid of shallow water and lots of small breaking waves. John had hugged his camera enough to warm it and got a great shot of a Kittywake in full flight!

Kittywake in full flight. Loves the Arctic summer/fall/beginning of winter.

Check out our driver’s sidearm. They are also equipped with a rifle on board— and lots of deterrents. Guns are the last option.

This is the cliff at Beechy Island, the destination for our speedy little trip. We got almost close enough to the cliff to see birds.

Back at the ship, we had a late lunch, then everything was back on for the zodiac ride to shore. Check out the photos. Really cold, really stark. But it was the place where the Franklin Party overwintered in 1846. We were there for 45 minutes. The crew was there all day, some doing jumping jacks in place to stay warm. The sobering sight was the rifles they were holding to keep guard over our pitiful party. Three very cold, armed guys were trying to stay warm while also keeping watch. We owe them all a warm meal.

The graves and the remnants of the Franklin campsite were about all that’s here, but the gray gravel beach gently sloping up to steep cliffs marked an extraordinary spot to contemplate.

This is the last step to going ashore on a wet landing. We will have to swing our legs over the side and jump into shallow water, then walk ashore.

John caught the light in this photo and the four graves with the spit of land and rapids in the distant right. Just out of view to the left is one of the crew armed and dangerous, on polar bear guard.

A photography group hanging out on the deck. Yellowish-green jackets are crew.

Back aboard, we did some deck photography, I went swimming, and we finally met Margaret, a friend of a friend, on board. We’ve been trying for days, but finally succeeded when I put a paper note on her door. The Evening briefing gave us the news that the weather will be too cold and rough for us to land on Bylot Island, so we will do a bird watch “slow down,” instead.

The Octantis pool is perfectly still, so nice to have it all to myself! Heated benches, snow shower, and ice bucket shower are extra treats!

Lovely day… Think tropics and then reverse it. Good night!