Antarctica Daily Diary 1/21022—2/5/22 by Patti Brugman
Antarctica #1 Pre-trip planning—3 Days Before Departure
I’m writing this a few days before we depart to prepare friends for their own dream trips. First, there is the mental commitment to go. Then the reality of a down payment. The final payment. The insurance. The medical forms… and more medical forms.
So here we are with bags packed, just a few days to go, ready to jump into a whole new reality. It feels a bit like what moon travel will be in 70 years! But unlike the moon, this is about water, ice, penguins, birds, birds, birds, and the color blue. Okay, I’m going to reveal this. I had my toenails painted iceberg blue for the trip. Of course, no one but John will see my toes in the next two weeks, but I hope to remember that color long after we return.
As part of the preparation, we’ve also ordered a few things online. In fact, it’s a bit ridiculous. Every day another package arrives. We’ve received thermal socks, sock liners, gloves, glove liners, hats and liners, neck gaiters, waterproof trousers, long underwear, binoculars, fake N95 masks from Korea, a charging adapter for my ipen (might need it!), fuzzy boots, hand warmers (they’re heavy!) and more. There’s so much stuff around here that I’m starting to wonder if maybe a few penguins will waddle out from underneath it all!
We’re also talking to friends who’ve taken the trip and watching videos of other cruise bloggers. One group actually had an excursion to sleep on an ice floe! The hardy few packed sleeping bags and used a kind of rake to create a “bed” out of the snow! Most of the ships seem to have a “polar bear plunge” option, so we’re going prepared (a chance to show off my blue nails!) though John is more looking forward to jumping into the natural hot springs that my dad experienced back in ‘03. The unifying factor among the cruisers is that there is only a general plan for the ship. The captain makes the decisions. If the weather is good, options open up. If the weather is bad, excursions change to onboard lectures. So the plan is to stay aware and ready. When it’s time to go, be packed and in line because that may be it for the day.
But we’re not there yet. We’re not anywhere yet. We’re still in dreamland. Let’s see what the reality is. Until then… take care, my earthling friends!
Antarctica #2 Pre-Trip 2 Days Before Departure
We have been receiving memos from Viking daily. They are enthusiastic, and detailed, and usually come with a change of plan. Today’s memo announces that the Viking Octantis is presently taking a shakedown cruise to the continent. This is great news because in one of the previous missives, we discovered that despite our careful planning, we are not on the second voyage of this brand-new ship. We are the first! That is both exciting and a little worrisome because we know that despite expert engineering and experienced planning, things happen. Being first means that we will be first to discover the faulty door handles, plumbing problems, and design flaws—but we will also be first to board the zodiacs and submarines… truly a special treat!
The message in today’s memo is that in addition to having the required PCR test before we leave, we will need another at our hotel in Buenos Aires. And sadly, even though we are arriving a day early in BA so that we can tour the town, we are now advised to stay in the hotel for the whole duration, while waiting for another negative test results before boarding the charter to Ushuaia.
Finally, we have been told that our return trip will no longer include Buenos Aires at all. Our charter will take us directly from Ushuaia to Miami where we will just make the connection to LA and home.
There’s a lot going on and a lot of unplanned adventures to look forward to. We’re starting to get into the spirit of the flow. Expeditions are rarely predictable and are often full of the unexpected. Who knows what we’ll experience in the next two weeks— I just hope it includes penguins and whales!
Antarctica #3 Pre Trip, at the airport
Today is our travel day, hooray. We have trouble, however, boo.
7:00 am Following the precise directions, we had our PCR test taken within 48-36 hours of our flight— not realizing that test results do not come within 24 hours. In fact, we have heard nothing from CVS since taking the test. Trying to solve the problem, we tried to schedule a one-hour rapid test appointment at LAX but could not. We decided to hop a cab 6 hours early and “walk-in” to a test site at the airport. That worked! But, all they had were tests with 3-5 hour results. At this point, 3 or 4 hours would be fine, but 5 hours would be too late. We might have to reschedule our flight to Buenos Aires for tomorrow. The good news is that we built an extra day into the trip so even if we have to fly tomorrow, we might still make the charter to Ushuaia. Still, the anguish is fairly extreme. We’re both trying to stay calm.
Hoping for good times soon.
12:45. We’ve spent the last few hours in extended anguish, trying to think of alternative plans….going home, spending the night, coming back tomorrow with negative results if there were any…and then, after more discussion, John’s phone buzzed. The results? Yes! First John. Negative. (I worried because he had a haircut the other day). Then me. More button pushing and passwords. Finally, negative! Hip hip hooray! Penguins here we come!
…After passing one more test in Buenos Aires, that is. Stay tuned.
Antarctica Day 1: 1-21-22 The Last Continent
Getting to the end of the earth takes a couple of hoops and hops! First, we had to pack carefully. There will be no shops to stop in and buy whatever we forgot. No pharmacies. No Amazon. For this reason, we packed a First Aid bag that has all the remedies from our shelves including Band-Aides, Tylenol, personal meds, and even Scopolamine (in case we need it.) Even at this and with a few extra books and jackets, our suitcases are both full, but well underweight.
With that thought out ahead of time and done a few days ago, the next step was following directions to secure a negative PCR test. This was a tough one because the rules said that the window for the test was 48 hours before departure. What we didn’t know was that the turnaround for test results is usually longer than that! Oops. After having our test on Thursday morning, we were startled not to have results by Friday morning, our day of departure. John’s idea was to go to the airport hours early, just in case. I called the emergency number. There was silence after I explained, then a big breath. “You’ll have to get a rapid test at the airport if there’s time.” That’s about when panic set it.
I immediately called the taxi company and changed the order by two hours. We had to leave now. John finished his packing. We wolfed down a plate of eggs and bing bong, our ride arrived. All the way there, we tried to make reservations for a rapid test, but no reservations were available today. We were switching into “what if” mode. Without a negative test report, we would not be able to board the plane in LA because Argentina would not let us in the country.
Luckily, we had built an extra day into the itinerary, just in case. If we had to change everything to Saturday, we’d still be in place by Sunday when we needed to muster for the charter.
At the airport, we asked to be dropped off at the yellow umbrellas, the pop-up test station. There, we found out that a one-hour test was not an option. They could only offer 3–5-hour tests. With a flight at 2:50 and it was now 9:30, a 3-hour test would work. A 4-hour test might be too tight. We gave our details and stood in the short line. At the window, I explained our predicament. John did too. The woman understood but could make no promises. John noticed that after his test, someone from the back collected all the samples. A good sign?
I called the travel agent. He was set to change everything to Saturday, if needed—both flights, the driver in BA, and the hotel. After that, we weren’t very chatty. We found a place at the Bradly Airport to sit. John closed his eyes and tried to calm himself. I wrote and read. Then we talked it over again. Then he started reading his novel. The hours passed. We had lunch. Then just after the last bite of sandwich, John’s phone buzzed. It was the report of our results. To mash a quote from Dickens, “The spirits did it all in three hours!” With that news, we were hugs and happiness and off to check in and check our luggage. The very next thing we did was to go back to the test center and thank them. They were terrific, but we think the very slow airport traffic might have figured in. Anyway, away we go! Ho Ho!
Later the same day:
We are safely ensconced in our hotel room at the Hilton in Buenos Aires. Our driver was fabulous. Knowing that we will get to do very little here (it is recommended that spend the whole time in our room!), he gave us a mini tour of the city showing us the Eva Peron building (she smiles on the side facing the poor and shouts on the other side facing the rich neighborhood), the obelisk, the statue of St. Martin, The Pink House (where the president works), and the suspension bridge and tall ship across the river from the Hilton. The hotel is fabulous, by the way. What a terrific lobby— and our room is quite comfortable.
Following the firm warning from Viking to stay indoors away from people, or (if we did go out) to stay in the open air, we chose to venture out. This might be our only outing while in BA, which is fine. We walked (with masks on) along a very lightly populated promenade to an iconic suspension bridge and across to see the square rigger, the President Sarmiento. It’s in rough shape, as most things are here, but interesting. On our way there, I caught several shots of a teenager on the sidewalk being made into a princess. Later, John and I took a shortcut back to the hotel through a wide Breezeway between two buildings. All the windows were reflective glass, and the day was warm and bright, so several girl troops were out making use of the reflection and the weather, practicing dance moves! It was quite a show!
Back indoors, we bought lunch at the shop and sat in our own little sports bar, eating and watching both amateur golf of the Americas and a NASCAR rally sponsored by Bass Fish shops! Ha! A very lovely day indeed. It’s supposed to rain all day tomorrow, making it easy to stay in.
Antarctica, Day 2: 1-22-22 The Bottom of the World, Buenos Aires
This was a day of hotel living. Ever read “The Man from Moscow” by Alexander Towles? This was the life. Upstairs, downstairs, the roof, the door, and then escape! After breakfast, we were tested again. This was the official test by Viking to ensure that all passengers are worthy for entry (think crossing the moat in Monty Python.) We took our test, then back to our rooms. The plan was to stay put for the whole day, but I remembered my self-stick, the one I bought at the Louvre to the great embarrassment of Katie on our trip in 2015. I had packed it with me for all the pictures of John and I together on the continent, ice floes, or undersea in the submersible. So I pulled it out to give it a try. Oops. It had an attachment for my former phone and did not adapt for my new iPhone! I needed a new one quickly. Surely a tourist spot like this would have some kind of market nearby. Indeed, they did, but it was Sunday and the only place open was the pharmacy and the market. Donning masks, we dashed out and up the street. Though it felt like were escaping prison, we were not. We had been advised that if we went out, we needed to keep our masks on and not stay indoors for extended periods of time. The quick looks into the pharmacy (no good) and the market (just food) brought us right back to the hotel where we were again confined to trips upstairs, downstairs, to the roof where the swimming pool and several city views were, and back down to the restaurants.
Happily, in the recent literature was a suggested app— the Cornell Bird app—for us to download. Since our first venture to sea will be through the Beagle Passage, there will be chances for extensive bird watching. The Cornell app offers identification keys for “bird” in your geographical area. They hope that by doing this, people record their sightings and extend the Cornell database. We dutifully downloaded the app and started pushing buttons. My favorite was the “sound” button. For quite some time afterward, I subjected John to the call of an albatross, skua, and petrel. But of course, each species of each has a slightly different call. The chirping continued for some time.
Having little else to do, we also looked out the huge window quite a bit. While the windows on the ground floor offered views of girl groups practicing their dances, our upstairs views were of the skyline. So, I tried my new bionic ultra. Terrific! That’s just about when John thumped his head with the realization that with because of the fast exit from home, he’d forgotten his! This is quite an irony because I bought mine (exactly like his) on eBay last week specifically so I wouldn’t have to share his. Now it looks like I’ll be sharing mine. Ha ha!
We had a small lunch of empanadas but stayed for more than an hour because the central bar in the gorgeous hotel, was a sports bar. We watched a bit of horse jumping before finding the Golf Channel. Oh yes, the rest of the day was in Golf Heaven, watching the American Express tournament at PGA West. Hudson Stafford won by two strokes. Sorry, if that ruins it for you.
Dinner was delivered to our rooms at 6 pm. Our luggage had to be outside the door at 8 pm. We were in bed by 10–preparing for a very early morning tomorrow.
Antarctica Day 3-4: 1-24-25-22 Below The Convergence, Buenos Aires to Ushuaia/
This morning started at 5 am. We jumped out of bed at the alarm, packed our pjs into our carry-ons, and headed down to breakfast. At breakfast, we met a few people (Nick and Lauren from Virginia, and Mary and Jim from Houston) Then it was time to board the bus to the airport and the plane to Ushuaia.
All is fine for us. We do not know if there were any midnight knocks on any doors last night. That would have been the awful news that “we’re sorry to inform you, but you tested positive and will be returning to the US immediately”— or maybe worse. Maybe they would not be allowed to return to the US, but would have to quarantine at this lovely Hilton, miss everything, and then return home. Maybe another solution would be to stay at the Hilton until they were clear, then book passages on another ship. We know that all ships have vacancies right now. The struggle to get here is only for strong, determined, daring, and healthy. While some might pass all the tests, they might see too much risk, while others just might not be fit enough to pass all the medical examinations. We may never know if anyone was positive and what was done about it— we can only guess.
After a lovely plane ride from BA, we arrived at the small beach town of Ushuaia. Surrounded by mountains and fairly cold and rainy— 50 degrees is a normal summer day here. Winter is deep in snow which is why everyone loves this place. No troubles. No reason to ever leave because the world comes here to either push off to Antarctica or ski!!
Boarding the ship was not as easy as stepping aboard, however. Before leaving the bus, we had to have our pictures taken and have a personal briefing. We learned that we will be wearing our masks for the whole trip, except while eating. We will be able to socialize, but only in groups of 6 or fewer—all fine. Onboard, we were welcomed warmly by lots of very cheerful crew members. I think we’re all happy we’re here. The ship is only a little over half full because of the situation—without all of us, there would be no cruise at all! We were ushered from station to station. First to have our temperatures taken, then to prepare us for the submarine rides (lots of focus here)—weight taken for ballast purposes and lots of paperwork. John is happy to be down many pounds—reward ahead for that. We also learned that cameras any bigger than a cell phone are not allowed on the submarine. Sad face since he just bought all new equipment for this trip.
We also had to deliver saliva samples. Since I was extremely thirsty, it took three times as long for me as for John. The ship’s doctor (a very nice Croatian man) finally took pity on me after my twenty small spits and only halfway to the mark— he took it as is. Now we go to our rooms and wait five hours for the results!
More on the submersible submarines: We have had to sign affidavits for boarding them acknowledging that we understand that there is an unlikely risk of suffocation, drowning, and other torturous ways to die aboard. We’ve had to declare that we are not claustrophobic and do not require aids to walk and that we understand that the opening is only 24 inches wide. Knowing all that, we happily signed away! Looking forward to giant squid and other swimmy creatures in the great deep—think “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea”—oooo. (I’m a little sad that the likelihood of seeing a sperm whale is very—unlikely. Sigh.)
And I’ve been shopping already! My one and only chance to make a purchase in Ushuaia was at the airport, so I bought a penguin! John named her Maggie because she is a Magellanic penguin, one will see again in the flesh soon—we hope!
Our room is lovely, a bit smaller than on the Paul Gaugin, but fine. We were greeted with both champagne and wine, sandwiches, desserts, and lots of fruit. Knowing that we will probably be weighed again before boarding the submarine, we held back on the champagne and desserts!
Five hours in our room is going to be tough. I think the weekend in the hotel was just practice for the new reality, but no matter how rough the conditions, we are so happy to be here! Antarctica, here we come!
Antarctica, Day 5: 1-25-22 The Great White South, Heading out to Sea
Even though this report is for the second half of Monday, it is now Tuesday morning. We’ve had our first night at sea! We left through the Beagle Passage (how exciting!) which is lovely. It’s truly a passage through the hilly mountains, a little to port a little to starboard, the straight on.
Most of our evening was spent waiting for our test results to come in. Five hours went by, and I called. Six hours went by, and I called again. We got the same pat answer both times, “I’m sorry. You will be notified by a phone call or a message on your TV.” After hearing the TV cue, a second time, John checked. We were clear! (And might have been for hours— oh well.) We had just enough time to make it to the Manfredi restaurant before they closed. We sat by the window, gazing out at the Beagle Channel, dining on an absolutely gorgeous dinner— fish, steak, ravioli (the best) wine, and interesting bread. Nibble nibble, chew chew. We ate leisurely but were done quickly. Then, off to the Aula Theater to see the end of the documentary on seals and penguins (one tries to eat the other, but just misses.) As we were watching, the engines started rumbling! We were pushing off—hooray!
We were last in and first out of the movie— hurrying to the nearest exit for a walk around the decks and a last gaze back at Ushuaia! Oh yes, we were moving and it was cold. 43 degrees. Just a quick walk here and there, then back to the room, where our winter wear was starting to arrive! All of John’s fit perfectly, but mine was only half right. The huge jacket was too huge. Still, donning all we could, we headed back out for a proper walk around the decks. I only lasted about 10 minutes. John stayed for 20 and came back very cold. All the long johns and liners that we packed are going to be essential for our trips ashore where the temperature will be at least ten degrees cooler.
But with a few pictures taken a lovely meal, and a cabin window to the sea— we fell into bed and were rocked gently to sleep. (Ocean is fairly calm this morning!)
Antarctica, Day 6: 1-26-22 The Driest Dessert, The Islands Appear
Yesterday was non-stop. Even though we’d been at sea all day, we did not rest (much). We started with another PCR spit test. (Left the vials for pickup.) Then we had a schedule. We needed to attend an IAATO mandatory meeting for everyone who wants to go ashore anywhere. Here we were presented with the Rules for landing. Of course, we want to do everything right, but who knew that you’re not to tread on any penguin highways? If penguins have walked there, we should not because our big boots might disturb their paths. Lots of other very logical rules apply. We’re going to do everything right. This ship is perfectly brand new with all-new high-tech bioresearch equipment on board, completely sponsored by Viking and completely available to any scientist who wants to make use of it. We’re so excited by the direction this cruise line has decided to take. Tourism to the top, research also to the top!
After our International Association of Antarctica Treaty Organization meeting, we attended both the submarine and kayak instruction meetings—essential for going on these outings. The big message was “You’re in Antarctica now. If you don’t follow the rules, you will die quickly.” Well, maybe not that harsh, but anyone who questions the need for a dry suit, was reminded that “you’re in Antarctica now…” The submarine talk was both exciting and full of parameters. The big message was, “If you cannot enter a 24” hatch and climb downstairs unaided… If you panic inside tight spaces… if you have to go to the bathroom frequently…. Let us know now so we can make space for other people.” Point taken.
I visited the ship’s store right after our lovely, small lunch to secure a second pair of gloves. I brought mittens but see that gloves will also be necessary. Problem solved!
As a diversion from the schedule, John created a secret mission to take me on. And what a mission! He took me to a place called “The Hide.” This is totally ingenious because it’s very difficult to get to and once there, so rewarding. Ha ha! Great idea for ship design. You can only get there by a circuitous route and then enter through a big metal door with rivets that look like it should read, “Keep out!” It’s a place at the far bow and bowels of the ship. Pull open the door and a special lounge with windows shaped like the hull of the ship appears. Indeed, sit by the wall of slanted windows and enjoy the crashing, booming waves that seem to hit you through the glass! The decor is dark wood and exposed HVAC ceiling, all painted black. Tonight, if we can find our way back, is Antarctic adventure storytelling! We had a long talk with Tammy there…
Next, after my short adventure to the spa to try the “warming benches” (lovely…sigh), we hauled off to get our boots, essential for any outing. After hearing from travelers on the way that the line was at least one hour long, we hesitated and then went anyway. Turns out the “jacket people” were in the long long line. There was a separate call for “the boot people”. Hooray! And success! We’re both fitted and ready with huge, heavy boots and all parts of the Antarctic uniform.
Next was the laboratory tour. Very exciting things were done aboard ship regarding climate change and microplastics. Full lab supported by Viking, open to all scientists! Pictures to follow.
Next, (after a short rest) was the Captain’s Greeting. We were given champagne and had a chance to meet all the key leaders of all the teams aboard. We can see the camaraderie between them and are excited by their expertise. No one has said, “It’s your first time aboard, and my first time too!” Instead, they are all extremely experienced—even though this is the first cruise for the Octantis.
After a gorgeous dinner with Earl and Cindy Baker from Utah, we headed back to the Hide for storytelling, Alaskan wilderness adventures. Very entertaining!
Antarctica, Day 7: 1-27-22 The Ice-Covered Continent
This morning, we glided slowly across the passage under overcast skies. As I was listening to a talk about the science of the day, I could see John through the great stern windows looking out with binoculars and a camera. Then I received a text from him that there were whales and “Land Ho!” I grabbed my things and raced out of the Aula auditorium and downstairs to don the jacket and pants and grab a hat and gloves to meet John on deck. Soon we were both racing forward where more whales were sighted. Birds gave away their locations by circling the spot where the whales stored up krill, so first birds, then a whale face, then maybe the back, then the flukes. There were so many! John got terrific pictures; I think.
With the whales in retreat, we started focusing on the land. Even though we were looking at one of the very close islands, the elevation was extreme, and all white as clouds started crowded in even more, it started snowing! Soon, we couldn’t see anything and went inside.
John downloaded his pictures while I went off to the gym, hoping to swim. I worked out a bit, but the indoor pool, lovely and warm as it was, was not yet open so I lay again on the warming bench. With windows all around, I managed to watch the icebergs float by, or more like brash ice and bergy bits.
Later, we treated ourselves to a cocktail in the Explorer’s Lounge on the bow and chatted with other fellow travelers, Andre and Ari who are professional cruisers. They hadn’t been home in many years before Covid and are now back to living at sea and living off their earnings.
Antarctica, Day 8: 1-27-22 The 7th Continent, Damoy Point
This was the day that we’ve been looking forward to, our first steps on Antarctica. So much of this experience is other-worldly. We feel like we’re on Mars—the stark beauty and inhospitable climate. Or, in the Himalayas— the cold and rugged terrain that we struggle to climb through. In fact, it’s much easier than I make it out to be. Once we got used to all the weight we were carrying with the clothing and heavy boots and John with his camera bag, we were fine and could have gone for miles (or at least one!) One trick we came up with was to leave our heavy life preservers on shore rather than carry them with us on the snow trail. One of the guides told us not to do that anymore. We were very terrified of being sent to the second-level confinement area, so will be sure to comply tomorrow!
Up the first snow trail, we toured the small emergency hut left over from the British in the 70’s. It’s a rustic little building whose most interesting feature was the giant snow melter, an aluminum tank with a small fire burning underneath. From there, it was time for penguins! We hiked up up up to a rocky outcrop. There, framed against the water behind, were 50 little Gentoo penguins, with white spots painted over their ears and the edges of their beaks painted Chinese red. They walk with their little wings outstretched for balance and love socializing. We had to keep our distance, but they were a joy to watch. Up up and way up another incline was the rookery. By now the chicks are plump and fluffy but still a lighter gray and not ready to fly. They did not move from their rocks but just waited for their parents to bring food. Behind them the sea and the ship, which made a lovely view.
Our trip to shore was about 90 minutes. We were among the last to arrive and the last to leave. As we were wading into the water to climb into our zodiac, a huge bird flew close to the water near us, tipped its wing and glided silently upwards. I pointed and dumbly announced, “Albatross!” The whole boastful of people gasped together. Truly awesome.
We had lunch in the Scandinavian Cafe today, the Momsen. This is a small ship with just a few restaurants, but each is distinctive and lovely. This one served open-faced sandwiches and decadent desserts!
At some point, we got the bad news that our submarine tour had been canceled. Yesterday, we saw one of the submarines out trying to practice, but actually never submerging. It turns out that a representative from the company is on board trying to figure out “the problem.” Later in the day, we found out that “the problem” might not be fixable. A sigh of disappointment… instead, we were given stamped postcards from the Port Lockroy mail station on Wiencke Island where were hiking today. (I’d rather have a submarine ride.)
After lunch and plans to go back to the room, we noticed that the sun was out. We grabbed all our garb and raced out on deck into the fierce freezing wind to take sparkling shots of splashing whales, whited-caped sea, and sparkling white layers of snow rising to jagged cliffs to steep to hold much water. The warning is always to stay away from the snow cliffs. At any moment, they can break off and become million-ton icebergs.
The evening’s entertainment was a documentary on humpback whales, lovely. We meant to get to bed early but had so much fun reviewing each other’s pictures and stories that we were up late anyway. I seem to catch up on my sleep whenever sitting in the Aula theater (apologies to the speakers!)
Antarctica, Day 9: 1-28-22 The Last Continent
This might have been the best day of our whole trip. We saw an “iceberg bay” from our morning window with steep snow-covered cliffs all around. It was cozy with lots to look at. On our Zodiac ride into Hidden Bay, we saw a Weddell seal, two leopard seals (both sunning on small icebergs), Pintado petrels, calving cliffs, (which can kick up huge waves so we were taught how to duck for cover inside the boat). We found floating ice (pure, not snow) and learned that icebergs are very dangerous because they are massive underwater and sometimes turn over, causing death and destruction— all good to know! Much later in the day, we were treated to a really big surprise.
At lunch, we made plans to combine our reservations with Nick and Lauren so that six of us will be able to dine together tonight at Manfredi’s and finally share the small surprise that I’ve packed specifically for the trip!
We spent the afternoon in the SOV (Special Operations Vehicle), which looks much like the Jungle Cruise ride at Disneyland and is complete with the patter from the tour guide. As we viewed nearby cliffs and distant scenery, we learned how to avoid small boat “ice-dangers” and then got caught in one! It all started when the ship decided to move locations while were out— oh yes, what a feeling to see Mother Ship sail away while on the Jungle Cruise. The only way to reach the new location was to sail through “brash ice” (think floating rocks everywhere), which this boat has not yet been rated for. This worried our little crew, on their brand new ship, but in the search of a path, we also found ‘sea ice”.
This is something that shouldn’t exist this time of year because it is the first to melt when summer comes. Sea ice is distinguishable by its flatness and slightly yellowish tint. While icebergs are mountains of freshwater and are often bluish-white, sea ice is frozen seawater that forms to cover shallow bits of sea, much like a frozen lake back home. Icebergs break off from mounding snowpack on land, while sea ice just grows. It is sea ice that trapped Shackleton’s Endurance, and sea ice that socks in the Weddell Sea every year. This ice was here because this has been a particularly cold and snowy year. The bay near us is still socked in with it, enough so that that bay is not on our itinerary. Some must have broken off and floated free. Now that we looked around, it was everywhere, and another problem. Our chatty guides cut all conversation, because quite serious, and slowly made a path through the ice— all chunks that hit our little boat or scraped against it, made horrible sounds. There were cheers when we made it through without losing the rudder!
When we finally returned to the ship, we all checked the underside of the hull and saw possible new dents and scraps from the encounter with so much brash ice. So that little boat is no longer brand new—but the crew now knows it can take it. As we walked forward through the hangar, we passed the submarines, those huge glass bubbles with green hatches, (like another Disneyland ride). Terrific to see them up close, but we have heard little and think they will not be available for this cruise at all and never until they are fully repaired.
Later, at possibly 6 pm, we heard an emergency announcement from the bridge. “This is your captain speaking.” This is often followed by a weather report or other natural conditions. This time it was to tell us that Lars, the resident ornithologist, had spotted a very rare sighting of a single Emperor penguin juvenile on the iceberg we were just passing. Chaos ensued as everyone all over the ship (passengers and scientists) dropped both books and toothbrushes to run with cameras and binoculars for the starboard rail. Excitement turned to camaraderie as everyone made room for one more so that everyone could see. This is a very unusual find for this time of year, so unusual that after 20 voyages, this was Lars’s first sighting ever! Emperors roost much further inland all winter long and rarely move through this area at all. We were told “no emperors” for this trip and yet here was a juvenile. The captain slowed the ship so that everyone could take pictures. John and I were running back and forth below decks when the announcement came. He looked out the window at the passing iceberg and said we should go to the 5th deck. I said I would meet him there. Then I pushed the button to roll down our giant window (which is awfully slow when you’re in a hurry!) We were right on top of the iceberg, but no penguin. John was right, 5th deck. Up went the slow window, but as it was going up, the penguin stepped around the corner of his icy deck, right into my private view. Down went the window and I got a photo. Hooray!
I ran up to the 5th deck and found John and we stood together, taking pictures and making films of this little gal who still had a little bit of fluff around her collar. She didn’t seem anxious but walked a bit this way and that, preened a bit, looked around, and posed for photos. Lars explained later that this big chick would be fine. As soon as the last of her downy feathers fell off, she would be waterproof and ready to jump or toboggan off that berg, into the water to find friends and food. She was going to be just fine. Smile, smile.
At dinner that night with our new friends, to celebrate the sighting of the Emperor Penguin, we brought out our own little surprise— the small bottle of Shackleton whisky that we’d smuggled from home! I mentioned this to Lauren and Nick a few days earlier, but we have all been so busy with our events that we hadn’t set a time. Finally, the time was now. John told the story of the original bottles being found under the floorboards of the hut from Shackleton’s first journey (and with permission reproduced into this blend) and I produced the bottle—enough for everyone at the table to have two “glugs” each! Cheers to the voyage, to Emperor penguins, and new friends, cheers all around! We had spectacular dining followed by a movie on Roald Amundsen. Good night!
Antarctica, Day 10: 1-29-22 The White Continent, Saturday
We started early with a Zodiac landing on a little island called Cuverville, named after a Belgian admiral (who might be an ancestor of my cousins with a variation of the same name!) It was a small island with lots of rock outcropping, the rest covered in snow, of course. It was only 7:40 am when we boarded, which seemed early, but was the middle of the day here. At the first rookery, we met up with Lars, the bird expert and congratulated him on spotting the Emperor penguin yesterday. He was still glowing after a long career at finally having his first sighting ever—after twenty trips to Antarctica! We were told not to let the word out because they don’t want future trips to expect the same impossibility! (So don’t tell, ok?) Then, off to look at Gentoo penguin rookeries, see a few chicks (!), climb to the top of a very slippery hill and safely back down, then off to the point— lots of penguins walking the penguin highway near us, some walking right up to us! Loved every minute!
When we boarded, there was a big push to have people sign up for another SOV tour immediately following our landing. I spoke up and said that we’d rather have a kayak tour. The people behind us, very kindly, offered us their spot for their second kayak tour! We thanked them and marveled at how kind everyone aboard is.
Later, came the moment John was fearing—getting into the dry suit! Kayaking is not for the weak or fearful soul. It takes a lot of physical strength just to put on the dry suit and once inside it, you are stuck until the end of the voyage because it is an essential lifesaver in case of mishap. In these waters, a person would last five minutes and would not have any motor skills to wave, shout, or even kick underwater. With the dry suit, we are assured of one hour of motor skills— so the fun began. (See photos separately).
We did not board the kayak from the Octantis, but rather boarded a speedy Zodiac which zoomed off around Cuverville Island to a place around the backside where the channel was narrow and the water a bit calmer. Nicki (who worked in this freezing weather completely without gloves for the entire trip), instructed us on how to board the kayak. John and I did great (no man overboard drills!) and were soon mastered the gear shift and rudder so that we could keep up with Nicki. We were soon dive-bombed by Arctic terns (a little bird that makes the very longest migration of any other bird on the planet!) who were protecting their nests from both Skuas and us! We were being attacked. Paddle, peddle (these were a new kind of kayak), peddle peddle, and soon we were boating through fabulous glaciers with rock outcropping, Gentoo penguins everywhere. I was only able to take pictures but clicking the shutter with my nose! (It was way too cold to take my gloves off—and yet Nicki was still barehanded!) John was not allowed to bring his big camera aboard and was having difficulty with his phone. In fact, I only got half a trip of pictures with my phone—battery life is very short in extreme temperatures.
The best part was kayaking through fairly shallow water and icebergs called “bergy bits”—the size of cars and trucks, in very sculpted designs, often tropical-beach-blue near the waterline, a function we learned of the density of the pack ice they came from. Just gorgeous, but you’ll have to take my word for it— unless I can obtain some photos.
Reboarding the Zodiac was a challenge because our Zodian driver was actually the hotel manager aboard and knew nothing at all about the operation! Nicki (still no gloves!) had to teach him while helping us—what a hero. We all boarded safely and did not lose one kayak in the operation! We sped back to the Octantis, hitting only one rock (ka-thwap! Dead motor- moment of panic. Varoom, and hurray for the hotel manager!!
Later on board, I needed to recover from the severe cold and so tried the hot tub (fabulous), the snow shower (refreshing), the pool (very very warm), more snow shower, and the warming chairs. Finally, back to normal and ready for a lovely dinner with Deb and Gene, followed by a guided tour to the Hide— where we had a little nightcap. Good night!
Antarctica, Day 11: 1-30-22 Terra Australis
8 am weather balloon launch, on the 7th deck. We were allowed to go beyond the “Do Not Enter” sign to the helipad area where a biologist and a glaciologist—now meteorologist— were launching the second weather balloon. This is part of a global warming study that ships are asked to take part in. It’s a delicate operation to fill a special non-plastic balloon with helium, tie it off, and attach a small transmitter and thermometer before letting her go. Fun to have a countdown—10-9-8-7… Then watched it until it disappeared. The one from two days ago went 300 miles in about 3 hours before it stopped transmitting. And fun fact— apparently there are people out there who make it their hobby to collect the used transmitters from the ocean— as a contest to see who can get the most!
11 am, finally a chance to land on the continent! Until now, landings have been on Antarctica, but technically not the continent— until now when we landed on Terra Australis, the ancient name for the land itself. We loaded into a Zodiac and headed for the Brown Research Station at Paradise Harbor! There we disembarked easily onto rocks (rather than into the water as we have for the previous landings.) This made it quick and stable. We were easily on man-built steps with railings, heading up to the research station (which is closed this year because of Covid.) There was something about the whole place that felt like a rugged ski lodge. We were trekking in big boots on a snow-packed path, but step off the pack and we sunk deep into deep powder. Our trail was marked by golf alignment rods (ha ha) with X’s in areas that were off-limits.
This was a completely different landing. The trails led upwards— up up up— like we were climbing from the basecamp to Mt. Everest. Never mind the rain falling. It took strength and guts to climb all the way to the top and once there, we were just a few feet from a precipitous edge on all sides, no stopping, all the way to the bottom, rocks, or icy water! It looked extremely dangerous and yet John and I managed it and managed to take pictures of the scenery and of the only other people there— the strong Danish couple. We took a picture of them, and they took a picture of us! We’ll exchange at dinner tonight. There was a guide there to congratulate us and then down we went, carefully placing our feet in the steps that we’d made coming up. Tromp, tromp, tromp, we went, barely looking up, because down was a long way down.
On the trail, I thought of the book “Into Thin Air” by Jon Krakauer because crossing our path was everyone else from the ship! We had climbed easily, but the route was extremely dangerous. We wondered about the legalities, so I gave everyone I met “the talk” which went something like this: “Use your best judgment and stay in the footprints we’ve made. Toes on the way up, heels on the way down.” There was no other instruction so maybe I helped?? The good news is that everyone made it back to the ship. (I also think one of the great things about being the first cruiser is that there have been no accidents yet so our risk factor can be way up! Somehow, I like that!!)
Back at the ship, we scouted the library, which is extensive but completely random and without a librarian. I found a book on Antarctica birds and one of British mysteries (next to each other.) While John traipsed the ship, taking pictures, I went to the gym and spa, then wrote a little and finished a watercolor that I’ve been working on for a few days!
After Julian Dodswell’s talk on glaciology, we met Jean and Deb for a bottle of champagne to celebrate our landing on the continent. There is so much here to celebrate! John is always thinking of our friends back home and culling pictures that you might want to see— soon! Good night!
Antarctica, Day 12: 1-31-22 The End of the Earth, Monday
We had a Zodiac ride with Aaron around Foyn Harbor at Enterprise Island. We toured through lots of blue icebergs, which I never tire of because each is such a sculpture. While the film crew was positioning themselves to film the scientists who were laying small cameras on the ocean floor (using a special mackerel concoction to bait small rockfish), we found two lone penguins on a snow-covered bluff. As we neared, I had my binoculars up. They weren’t Gentoos! They were something else. I watched and watched until I was sure. They were Chinstrap penguins! Hooray!! We stuck around watching them watch us. They were very interested and came close to the edge, making all sorts of poses, so we got some very cute pictures. It’s wonderful to see a different species!
Next, we zoomed off to see shipwreck #1 a water tug for whalers, rusted out and run ashore in an artistic fashion. Above it was a rock outcropping with Skuas and a nest, so they dive-bombed us a bit. Next, we zoomed off to see shipwreck #2, The Guvernoren, a factory ship for whalers dating back to 1915 when it had been full of whale oil and caught fire after a drinking and dancing party. Apparently, a lantern fell over during the festivities and ignited all the stored oil. The crew steered the ship to shore and all escaped to be rescued by another whaler. Compared to our vessel, this one seemed to offer very few amenities, we think.
On the point, we saw blue-eyed shags, then sped back to the Octantis.
An hour later, we boarded the SOV, looked at one iceberg with a hole just right for framing photos, then sped at top speed, viewed a “logging” or sleeping humpback, then back to the ship to do a formation for the film crew aboard. When all the zodiacs and the two SOVs (think Jungle Cruise-type vessels) were assembled, we followed directions and sped away, leaving a beautiful wake behind us. Then the SOVs peeled off in formation and rounded the ship from bow to stern where we were rolled aboard via rotary machinery to the Octantis.
The rest of the day was a peaceful mix of lectures and lounging. Lovely day.
Antarctica, Day 13: 2-1-22 The Comma Shaped Continent
Stern Landing at Snow Point, The Shetland Islands to see elephant seals.
We were on the second boat out at 7:30 am. Just getting dressed for an event is quite an undertaking. We were trying to time it this morning and decided that while it probably only takes ten minutes to dress, the strength required is extreme. We put on layer over layer, easy layer requiring an extra tug. Then comes the pants which aren’t hard at all. Pants first, then the boots, but before putting on the boots, add socks. Three pairs at least. The knee-high boots must fit under the pant legs in case you step into deep water. Next comes the jacket (either Polar Tec or their puffy jacket) followed by their very heavy waterproof jacket with a hood. I have found that putting a packet of Hot Hands in each of my jacket pockets is perfect for controlling the cold around here. Having free hands is important for taking photos. Then, on top of the hug jacket comes the life preserver, always mandatory. That needs to be buckled and cinched down tight. Additionally, come hats (I’m up to wearing three at a time!) and a waterproof backpack and phone around my neck, easily accessible.
So, all ready to go, we headed down to mid-ships and boarded our Zodiac for shore. This was to be our last landing of the trip and the only one that we would do stern first. The crew was waiting in the water for us when we got there, chest-high, wearing dry suits. (Remember the warnings about staying in the water.) They pulled our boat close enough to shore that we could exit one at a time via the stern, jumping into calf-high water and walking easily on the sandy beach. Once again, Viking did a perfect job. No catastrophes. John and I walked up the beach to photograph elephant seals and whale bones, watch the seals a bit, and then back to the zodiac for me. I had a private ride back to the ship so the professional photographer offered to take a picture of me with my own camera.
This is a vacation with plenty of excitement, but gladly plenty of downtime— between terrific lectures and fine dining!
After a quiet afternoon, while we waited for the film crew to finish all their onsite filming, we left Snow Island and took the Shetland Islands to port to sightsee and benefit from their lee until 9 pm when we passed through the channel and into the Drake Passage where we are assured of a rough passage. Oh goodie, “The Drake Shake.” Let’s see how rough it gets!!
Antarctica, Day 14: 2-4-22 The Mountains of Madness
It’s time to mention the terrific honor we’ve had aboard the Viking Octantis on its inaugural voyage to “The Mountains of Madness.” We’ve been sailing with one of the great explorers of our time, a true pioneer of this continent and a triumph in women’s exploration, Live Arnesen. On January 6, 1995, Liv from Norway, skied unaccompanied from the edge of the continent in 50 days. She was not only aboard our ship but walked the decks with us, ate at the next table, and gave a great talk last Sunday night about her trek. Her picture hangs near the “Information Center” so if you’re ever on board.
In another talk, Nicki Bunting, the really fun, super strong sea kayak guide, gave a passionate talk about how women have been kept out of Antarctica (mostly because of superstition) and that the first women to arrive at the continent didn’t do so until 1969 and even then, it was only to visit McMurdo station for a couple of hours, then fly back again. Not until 1971, was the journalist, Louise Hutchinson, allowed to spend the night because the weather delayed her flight. Two years later, two women worked at the South Pole. In 1979, a woman physician spent the winter there. Then Liv Arnesen made her trek. These women have “broken the ice” so that now the percentage of women scientists on the continent is increasing every year.
Now to today’s adventure: We left the ship at 9:30, boarded buses, and had a 10-hour tour of the National Park of Ushuaia, given by a very enthusiastic man, Juan. Good job, nice tour. We learned about the Beech tree indigenous to only Ushuaia, New Zealand, and Australia. We saw the Antarctic hawk (has a black wig, like a Beatle haircut!) and took lots of pictures of the Beagle Channel’s more rustic inlets. The most amazing thing, though, was my sighting of “something way out there.” I was specifically looking for penguins—either Chinstrap or Magellanic, both of which nest this far north. John used his super duper telephoto lens to take the picture, which he later downloaded and zoomed in to examine. That “something” had been a colony of nesting chinstrap penguins. Hooray! Another significant wildlife sighting!
We were at the airport by 6:30 and boarded our 757 charter at 9 pm, leaving the small Ushuaia airport for Santa Cruz, Bolivia. There, we deplaned while they fueled. Reboarded for a second leg to Miami. Total travel time, 13 hours. After a five-hour layover in Miami, we will head to LAX. Arrival tonight around 7 pm. The plane is only half full, so we were both able to sleep nicely for most of both legs.
Home soon. It’s been a wonderful trip, a spectacular adventure, and an experience that we’ll continue processing for a long time.
The list of Antarctica monikers that I’ve collected this trip:
The bottom of the world
The last continent
The Great White South
The white continent
The comma-shaped continent
The driest continent
Terra Australis
The End of the Earth
The 7th Continent
The Ice-Covered Continent
The Base of the Globe
The Emperor’s Home
The South Polar Zone
Below the Convergence
The Mountains of Madness (from the story by H.P. Lovecraft)