This was the day that we’ve been looking forward to, our first steps on Antarctica. So much of this experience is other-worldly. We feel like we’re on Mars—the stark beauty and inhospitable climate. Or, in the Himalayas— the cold and rugged terrain that we struggle to climb through. In fact, it’s much easier than I make it out to be. Once we got used to all the weight we were carrying with the clothing and heavy boots and John with his camera bag, we were fine and could have gone for miles (or at least one!) One trick we came up with was to leave our heavy life preservers on shore rather than carry them with us on the snow trail. One of the guides told us not to do that anymore. We were very terrified of being sent to the second-level confinement area, so will be sure to comply tomorrow! 

Up the first snow trail, we toured the small emergency hut left over from the British in the 70’s. It’s a rustic little building whose most interesting feature was the giant snow melter, an aluminum tank with a small fire burning underneath. From there, it was time for penguins! We hiked up up up to a rocky outcrop. There, framed against the water behind, were 50 little Gentoo penguins, with white spots painted over their ears and the edges of their beaks painted Chinese red. They walk with their little wings outstretched for balance and love socializing. We had to keep our distance, but they were a joy to watch. Up up and way up another incline was the rookery. By now the chicks are plump and fluffy but still a lighter gray and not ready to fly. They did not move from their rocks but just waited for their parents to bring food. Behind them the sea and the ship, which made a lovely view.

Our trip to shore was about 90 minutes. We were among the last to arrive and the last to leave. As we were wading into the water to climb into our zodiac, a huge bird flew close to the water near us, tipped its wing and glided silently upwards.  I pointed and dumbly announced, “Albatross!”  The whole boastful of people gasped together. Truly awesome.

We had lunch in the Scandinavian Cafe today, the Momsen. This is a small ship with just a few restaurants, but each is distinctive and lovely. This one served open-faced sandwiches and decadent desserts!

At some point, we got the bad news that our submarine tour had been canceled. Yesterday, we saw one of the submarines out trying to practice, but actually never submerging. It turns out that a representative from the company is on board trying to figure out “the problem.” Later in the day, we found out that “the problem” might not be fixable. A sigh of disappointment… instead, we were given stamped postcards from the Port Lockroy mail station on Wiencke Island where were hiking today. (I’d rather have a submarine ride.)

After lunch and plans to go back to the room, we noticed that the sun was out. We grabbed all our garb and raced out on deck into the fierce freezing wind to take sparkling shots of splashing whales, whited-caped sea, and sparkling white layers of snow rising to jagged cliffs to steep to hold much water. The warning is always to stay away from the snow cliffs. At any moment, they can break off and become million-ton icebergs.

The evening’s entertainment was a documentary on humpback whales, lovely.  We meant to get to bed early but had so much fun reviewing each other’s pictures and stories that we were up late anyway. I seem to catch up on my sleep whenever sitting in the Aula theater (apologies to the speakers!)