This morning, we glided slowly across the passage under overcast skies. As I was listening to a talk about the science of the day, I could see John through the great stern windows looking out with binoculars and a camera. Then I received a text from him that there were whales and “Land Ho!” I grabbed my things and raced out of the Aula auditorium and downstairs to don the jacket and pants and grab a hat and gloves to meet John on deck. Soon we were both racing forward where more whales were sighted. Birds gave away their locations by circling the spot where the whales stored up krill, so first birds, then a whale face, then maybe the back, then the flukes. There were so many! John got terrific pictures; I think.

With the whales in retreat, we started focusing on the land. Even though we were looking at one of the very close islands, the elevation was extreme, and all white as clouds started crowded in even more, it started snowing! Soon, we couldn’t see anything and went inside. 

John downloaded his pictures while I went off to the gym, hoping to swim. I worked out a bit, but the indoor pool, lovely and warm as it was, was not yet open so I lay again on the warming bench. With windows all around, I managed to watch the icebergs float by, or more like brash ice and bergy bits.

Later, we treated ourselves to a cocktail in the Explorer’s Lounge on the bow and chatted with other fellow travelers, Andre and Ari who are professional cruisers. They hadn’t been home in many years before Covid and are now back to living at sea and living off their earnings.