Katie and I had gone to the Normandy Beaches in 2015 and loved seeing the Bayeux tapestry, so the family decided to take the tour that included the tapestry and the Commonwealth beaches. We all knew that the Americans had endured greater losses than the other countries. We’ve all seen the cemetery with 20,000 white stakes in the ground. Now it was time to see what the Brits, Canadians, and Australians did. But first, Bayeux!
Our group was very small. Three full buses headed for Normandy. One half-full bus headed for Bayeux. Bayeux was as we remembered it. Charming and very medieval. Cobblestone streets and small, full of little shops and churches with round stained glass windows. We exited the bus in a park and the path to the museum took us by a little stream with a waterwheel. It was an easy walk all full of colorful sights.
At the museum, Claude, our guide, got the tickets, and boom we were staring at the first panel of the tapestry. All of the 58 panels are embroidered on one long roll of cloth, each scene in an elaborate style that creates thick color. The faces on the figures were so earnest and the people so intent on their tasks— rowing a boat, riding a horse, shooting an arrow. I remembered being completely taken with the tapestry the first time, and here we were again. The colors were simple: brown, red, yellow ochre, black, and the white of the linen.
The museum and gift shop really completed the tour with information on how the tapestry was made, abused, and preserved. I especially loved the diagrams of life-sized figures. Our guide told us that we were among the last to see the tapestry before the museum closes in just a few days for the next 5 years. Put a date on your calendar now if you’ll want to see it then. It’s worth the wait.
From there, we walked across town to Lion Dior, a small restaurant for a very French lunch. Wine was at the table and we were served a hot Brie salad, chicken and potatoes au gratin, and lemon meringue. Très français.
Back on the bus to the first of four stops along the coast: The Juno Beach Center. This is just what you’d expect from a WWII museum— tanks out in front, a D-Day beach to walk on, and lots of artifacts to “ooo” over. Finally, we saw the movie which showed films of actual landings and young men falling as they offloaded from amphibious vehicles. The Commonwealth didn’t have it easy either.
Next, was another stop that we expected and something Katie and I did not do last time. We visited the Canadian cemetery, a small but perfect grassy area completely filled with white grave markers. Most had names, some had inscriptions. The Jewish headstones were mostly marked with a few rocks on top to symbolise that someone had come here. Our guide red the poem “In Flanders Fields” aloud while we listened sombrely.
Next, was the Pegasus Bridge and museum. Raise your hand if you knew how essential gliders were in the war effort. We were all amazed that there were so many and that these light aircraft could hold up to 30 people each. The gliders were a huge highlight to this long, long day. After a quick swirl around the museum to see the bagpipes and dented bugle, we were back on the bus. Two hours to get back to the ship, a lovely meal aboard, and to bed. Tomorrow we move early!
