Scotland 2024 (with John and Patti)
Day 1: The Departure 8-12-24
This was as thrilling as any airborne acrobatics. It wasn’t until yesterday, that we didn’t have the flight that we wanted, or even seats! John called and waited on the phone for hours. Got a call back as we were about to start a golf tournament. Sunday evening. John called back after the golf tournament and finally got through! We were to fly as planned with the upgrade requested, but no ticket could be issued until the morning. John was suspicious that the problem was not fully resolved. Indeed, this morning, we found, no tickets or seats. We went to the airport a little earlier than planned, but without enough time to resolve the issue. We met and hung out with some very kind and capable gate agents, but were still passed off from American Airlines, down the street a ways to British Airlines. How kind of the baggage gal to load our golf bags and take them all the way there for us. How kind of the British Airlines agent to say she would fix everything. How kind of her to find our reservation and payment (why was it ever lost?) and make it all good. I am now writing from a plane that is two hours later than planned but sitting in a lovely seat next to my beloved and heading to the UK. Hooray!!
Now, will our luggage and golf clubs follow us? We are not taking wagers as to what will go missing. All we hope for is that this might still be a smooth trip!!
Day 1: Scotland! 8-12-24
We spent way too much time at LAX sorting our “reservation without a ticket” problem, then ended up on a later flight in the seats we wanted, finally sipping pleasant drinks. No one wants to hear about those details except that I’m so glad I snagged luggage carts early, which made the eventual hurrying to “oversize luggage” so much easier when we were in a sudden rush to make our flight before it closed!
The layover in London gave us a chance to reflect on the last time we were here in early January on our way to Egypt. Then, there was a Christmas tree from the lower level all the way to the top. Then, there was a Harry Potter shop, where I spent lavishly. Now both are gone.
The Scotland leg took just an hour and a half, but coming in over the little farms and hedgerows is such a lovely sight. It was the kind of day that makes us love this place— a cerulean sky streaked with white clouds, flecks of golden light peeking through. When we landed and our luggage arrived (all pieces), we got our car and headed right for Karen’s Standing Stone Farmhouse to find no one home (!), but the door unlocked. We settled in, found Karen…big hugs and all kinds of welcome. It’s so nice here.
It was only 6 pm when a Scottish summer day was only half over, so we drove to the nearby small village for dinner and then around the countryside looking for Yester Castle. Instead of a castle, though, we found Castle Park Golf Course! After a lovely chat with the young starter, we took him up on his offer of a cart and drove around and drove the course. What a glorious time of day! What beautifully manicured fairways. We would be playing here tomorrow if it weren’t for one impossible hole and very punishing rough. Instead, we’ll play a local favorite tomorrow.
So nice to be here. (Have I said that three times yet?) Good night.
Scotland Day 2: 8-14-24
Today started with a new routine. Karen and Anne were up and out with the animals so John and I were on our own in the kitchen. That meant doing our own toast and tea, which we managed. It was just as tasty because the eggs are so fresh and the bread so wheaty. Making our own breakfast is the start to a new era of travel independence!
The morning went by quickly. We had to scoot to Tesco to buy all the makings for a Western barbecue for our little party tonight. The local store had everything. Leave it to Tesco. Karen had never heard of “ribs” but we found packs in the ready-to-go refrigerator section. I didn’t see any watermelon, but when I asked, the grocery came up with two trays of slices. Perfect!
We unloaded the groceries and headed right back out for our starting time at Kilspindie Golf Club, a charming links course just 20 minutes away. We’ve played here many times and are familiar with the par 3 first, the par 5 second, and the very memorable par 3 eighth that requires a shot over the water to make the pin. With the wind blowing and a few lost balls behind us, our little group (Skip included), all chose the safe bailout— no heroes here! The men were hitting it long and I wasn’t, it would seem that my score would suffer, but I was rather good around the greens and so made plenty of pars. The weather was clear and the company good. It was a lovely day.
After a beer with Ross Richardson (a member), we hurried home to start the preparations for the BBQ. I brought BBQ sauce in my luggage (which did not leak!), and colorful bandanas for everyone. We each wore our scarves differently. I did the cattle rustler style since I was standing over a smokey fire. Karen made a hatband with hers on the Stetson I brought her a few years ago. Anne made a Tonto-style headband and Shelagh did a young girl headband. John, of course, went full Rory Roger’s with his. We pulled up a few songs to set the right cowboy mood and the party started! Shelagh ran the Karaoke part of the evening after my sad choices (The Streets of Larado and Water). Then, we moved on to Country Western and the singing became louder! “Country Roads” by John Denver got everyone singing! With the open firepit, chicken on the coals, veggies, ribs, and corn, we had a feast!! Karen brought out two bottles of champagne and two more of wine, so we were all in good spirits. Finally, we sat around the standing fire pit, and John and I started to doze with just a bit of jet lag kicking in. We were gently excused to bed. What a wonderful evening.
Scotland Day 3, 8-15-24: Troon
We started the day early and found that despite the wildness of last night’s party, the whole group was up taking care of animals before work! We had breakfast and were out of there by 9 am, on the road to the west and Royal Troon! It was raining steadily which slowed us down a bit and we are still suffering from slight jet lag, so when we reached our lovely B & B, Fox House Third Part Farm (this was the third part of a divided farm), we rested a bit before our big round.
I hate to mention the price, but Troon was expensive and even though it was a fabulous course, I’ve now made a long list of “Why to avoid big, famous courses in Scotland.” Ask me later. Everyone was extremely friendly, and we sat in the dining room watching very wet, miserable golfers slog off the 18th green. Oh, what a morning it must have been. We donned all our weather gear and barely had time to chip a few balls before we were called to the tee by a very determined starter. There were people everywhere, players and caddies with their bibs, a lowering sky, and with the Open stands still up off we went. We were playing with two Danes who both hit strong drives. John’s went long but into the stands and was lost. Mine was not long and into heavy grass, which meant I had to play again with all those people watching. Then off to a strong game with a few balls in bunkers that seemed to appear from nowhere, like sand monsters, to eat your ball with their great green jaws.
Little is it advertised, but Troon does not have ladies’ tees. (Shock and horror.) Instead, it has at least three men’s tees and a separate set of pro tees for the Ladies European Tour (LET). Our caddie suggested that for convenience and some advantage, I play off the green tees which were 10’ (not yards) in front of John’s tees. We separated from the Danes on the second hole (one of their players was a bit slow so the caddies made the call.) And off we went, learning to stay clear of bunkers, keep it in the fairway, and play putts mostly straight. When we got to #7 (called Tel-el-Kabir, named for a battle), however, things changed. Collin told me to hit the cart path for the best result— and I did! Hooray. Then he told me to nail one over “that huge mound”— and I did. Hooray! Then I chipped 10 yards onto the green and made the putt for par. Hooray! Even though that was my best hole, John and I both gained a bit of confidence from then on. John had lots of great holes, learned to get out of any bunker in two, and hit ‘em long and straight, but together we started to fade after about #12. The rain had stopped before we started, but then the wind started up. Even when the sun shone through, we were a bit worn down by the excitement, the conditions, and those green jaws of sand— ha ha!
Dinner was at a darling Italian restaurant called Lido in the town of Troon and from there, we took the winding road back to the Third Part Farm (for short.) Tomorrow might bring much, much better players. We’re going to the Ladies Scottish Open!!
Scotland Day 4, 8-16-24: The Ladies Scottish Open!
We booked a starting time for the early afternoon, so planned the morning at Dundonald Golf Course and the afternoon at West Kilbride Golf Course. I was very excited to visit the ISPS Handa Women’s Scottish Open and see a few of the players who we’ve become familiar with. Cheyenne Knight is a particular favorite. She’s a lovely player who almost won the WSO in 2020, but in a playoff came in second to Stacey Lewis. We met her in 2019, her rookie year when she washed out of the Ladies British Open after a huge rainstorm hit. We were playing Longniddry Gold Course when she showed up in the parking lot. Johnny spotted her right away and predicted I was about to embarrass him. I did and we all had lunch together after our games. Lovely person.
Today, at Dundonald Golf Course, we quickly found Cheyenne and quietly followed her around the course. Her game was so full of drama that we just stayed with her. I ducked aside to reschedule our game for the day so we could stay here. I also saw Georgia Hall tee off and knew that Minjee Lee and Lydia Ko (Gold medal winner) were both on the course, but we continued as Cheyenne’s only gallery for most of the day. She played -1 yesterday and -1 today. Very steady and in the wind today and rain yesterday, she was tied for 6th! The wind was blowing fairly hard, so judging the pushback and the carry took special knowledge. These women had it. And after the third required ruling, I got to chat with the official about a special ruling situation I was familiar with. It was also great fun to walk a course that we’ve played three times and remember where we put our shots in comparison—no comparison. I think another side perk of watching pros is to realize that Yes! We can all get from under that tree to where you over-hit it, then a chip too short onto the green, and still make par!
After the game, Cheyenne thanked us for coming— short chat. We were freezing in this lovely summer weather (51 degrees with windchill) and hungry. The Titleist ball guys suggested that we eat at Scots Restaurant right on the water. Great views and delicious menu: Cullen Skink, Fish and Chips, and Scallops washed down with a couple of half pints. Yum.
And good night.
Scotland Day 5, 8-17-24: An Unexpected Party!
Today was meant to be an “off” day. We’ve been trudging pretty hard since arriving, so we thought we’d just drive around a bit then visit a course from 2018 that left us with horrible scores, but great stories— a little-known course called West Kilbride.
To start the day, we headed south on the west coast of Scotland to Prestwick Golf Club. Every course in Scotland has “bragging rights.” They all come with a slogan— “most copied holes”, “most ocean views”, “most revetted bunkers”, or whatever it is (hilarious). This one is truly true—the home of the first Open. In fact, the British Open was held here until 1925 and then never again, because there isn’t enough room for galleries and the crowd was actually pushing into the players! It’s a great course with famous holes— the Himalayas and the Sahara for hills and sand! We played here in 2018, but today was just a visit to take a picture of their Claret Jug (I have two so far this trip) and to get John a new golf towel! Little did I know, however, that they do not have a women’s club. Humph! Then off to town to search the “charity” shops for a warmer jacket for me. As they say here, “It’s bloody cold.”
That easily done, we were off again up the coast to another beautiful course that we’re not playing, Turnberry. This is truly a marvel and no matter your politics. Trump restored this course to its original glory, for which everyone is grateful. He also presented the club with a gorgeous trophy and lots of touches that are so unique. I took a picture of their Claret Jug (that makes three). Today, the club was quiet—no big buses. It was members day. We took a good look around, did not buy a Trump hat (just $45) and were back on the road.
Our destination for the day was on the coast, a proper links course that has delightful holes, lots of interest, and a gentle continuous breeze that is always 10+knots, West Kilbride. We went right to the shop to check in before having a late lunch. In five minutes, I was exchanging phone numbers with the starter! I’m friendly, but this was highly unusual. She is married to an American and they’re coming to the US next month, to Pasadena!! Of course, I had to offer tickets to the Huntington Gardens. I’d also offer a round of golf, but they’ve got a toddler and are coming for a wedding, so we’ll keep it simple. Anyway, friends for life, just like that.
In the parking lot, we were donning all our winter gear when a fellow in shorts (!) walked by. I had to remark that we had different views of the weather. He noticed my accent and asked when we were starting. Then, he invited us to start with him. That meant golf with a member— excellent— friendly and knows the course! We said yes to Jack!
Amazing how much we both remembered of the course from so long ago. Amazing how much a member knows that we don’t. John and I both had some lovely holes. Figuring out the wind (not a gentle breeze at all) was part of the fun. This course goes out for six, back in for two, shares a green with 17, then back out and around for ten and eleven, then back in. Even though I continue to be a shorter hitter, I did very well and John had a great time talking to Jack about this and that. About halfway around, I pulled out my “big” gift— a poker chip from SGCC and gave it to him. We also invited him to stay around afterwards for a drink, on us. On 17, he called his wife, Glynnid (Whannel) and the four of us had dinner and drinks together. His wife, (don’t laugh) runs a big charity shop here and had lots of stories to tell. We got on great—another friend for life.
What a delightfully wonderful day!!
Scotland Day 6, 8-18-24: Undiscovered Scotland
Today was the day for Glasgow, a city we’ve never visited. John was a bit concerned that it would be a rough and tumble place, a working man’s town, and a town without much culture. My goal/dream was to go to a bar in Glasgow and hear traditional music. With a little research, we came up with a long list of bars. With a little more research, we found the best bar in town for exactly what we wanted. Put this in your notes—Ben Nevis Bar. It truly is the best, but you don’t have to take my word for it, because we never made it there! Sorry, Glasgow was more of an ancient experience for us.
We got off to a late start with the idea that we were going to be staying in town late for bar music. At 11 am, we took the Scot Rail train from Dunlop Station up to the Glasgow Station. From there, we were obvious tourists in the train station—map out, phones on, pointing to various exits in the station with dialog that went like, “I think we should go there?” “No, I’m sure it’s that one.” Ok, we were lost from the start, so forgive us for wandering.
We went right to the Tourist Information Center where we met a young history major who was delightful. While he told us the whole history of Scotland in an animated YouTube way, I found terrific souvenirs. We learned that the Cathedral was really old and the right place for us to start, plus I’m Catholic and church is the right place to be on a Sunday morning. So off we went to the cathedral, which we found to be closed for the next 45 minutes! To kill time, we went to the St. Mungo Cathedral Museum just across the way. There, we learned how all the great religions of the world seek the same answers— why are we here? And how should we prepare for death? When the doors opened, a hundred waiting tourists flooded in— oh, to have a dependable congregation every week! John and I went in deep and down to the crypt where we found the coolest altar and quilt (just for Elaine). We took pictures of stained glass, talked to the guards, and left with a few questions to research.
Next, we headed back to the station (John had the scoop from cute-Robbie at the TIC) and shared a pizza at La Vita Restaurant—very nice! From there, it was to be the big tour. We wanted to do the Kelvingrove Museum, the Govan Old Church to see the Viking Celtic Stones, and finally the Riverside Museum to see the tall ship. I suggested we skip the Museum and go right for Govan. What a charming old church, with no one there! John told the guide that he was glad to arrive before the tour bus. The guide was suddenly animated. “There’s a tour bus??” Bad John. He was joking. We had the whole place to ourselves and wandered among the giant stones, recently brought indoors to recover from polluted conditions. We even found a sarcophagus which made us feel warm and fuzzy after recent Egyptian studies.
From Govan, we took the train one stop to Partick Station and walk, walk, hurry walk to the Riverside Museum, right on the water. Amazingly, it was a trains and automobile museum with a ship out the far window. With minutes until it closed, we ran and searched, but couldn’t find the door out to the dock to the ship! Noooo. Indeed, we missed the last tour of the Glen Lee by just a minute. Oh well. Instead, we told old sea stories to the gatekeeper and had him rapt with real-life high seas adventure for another fifteen minutes. For all who are interested, find “Around Cape Horn” on YouTube and have yourselves a good time!
It was now just 5 pm and the Ben Nevis show didn’t start until 8 pm. What were we to do for 3 hours when everything in town closes at 5 pm except bars? We could go to Ben Nevis and drink heavily … but that’s not really us. John knew this was my Scotland dream, but practically speaking, we had to think of our early tee time tomorrow. I called it. “Let’s just go home.” Sorry, folks. The show is starting just as I’m finishing this and we’re not there. See it on YouTube, ok?
PS. Those mysterious buildings out our window— dozens of them behind tall fences with starving guard dogs. Turns out, these are whisky warehouses. Whisky is not taxed until it’s sold. Very important to keep it under lock and guard dog!!
Scotland Day 7, 8-19-14: The Unexploded Bomb!
Does anyone remember the British show from the ‘70s—“Danger UXB”? It was short lived but certainly had a catchy title. Well, today we met up with a possible scene from that old show!! But back to the beginning…we started the day early because our starting time was 9am at the Troon Portland course, their second course across the street. The championship course was busy with buses and big guys—who all showed up again today (Troon is open to the public on M, T, Th only.) The Portland Course has a ladies club that cannot play the championship course. In fact, Troon decided to “allow” women to play the championship course only because they wanted to host the Ladies British Open and to do so meant they had to open the course to women players. So lucky me. Anyway, when John saw that we had groups of ladies in front of us on the Portland Course, he said, “Uh oh. Fast players. I hope they’re all in front of us.” Indeed, they were. We kept up but felt it was a bit more leisurely than the championship course had been.
For us, the Portland Course was both a rest and a test. The first fairway was so damaged by the Open support tents, that the tees were moved up close to the green, for a Par 3. We decided to play Stableford today, so we could add points rather than add up a big score, ha ha. I’ll give away the ending— we tied. John had a lovely game and felt at home again after too many stressful rounds. Anyway, the humor was that I always ask the starter about “toilets” on the course because there was one time when there weren’t any! Little did I think to ask about the combinations to the locks today!! And they didn’t offer— so Scottish. So, after a hearty breakfast and several cups of tea, we came to the sign: “Toilets this way” I was shocked when John revealed that we needed a code. I immediately called the shop and got— the wrong code! Luckily, I recognized the location from the big course and remembered the code from last week— but I would be talking to the pro shop after the round about this!!
The course was lovely, mostly flat which was a break, but with punishing rough. Some holes had raised greens and tricky bunkers, but it was a most relaxing course. The rain held off until just a few minutes after we finished when it came down in buckets without stopping. We felt all the cozier for missing the deluge.
So that’s the golf. Now, to the bomb. On the 9th green, we saw a police action off to the right on the course. There is still lots still going on as the Open stands are being disassembled and the sounds of machinery taking down the massive stands, so we really didn’t question it. When we teed off on 10, however, another police truck crossed our fairway. This one had a fellow walking beside it, so I asked, “What’s going on?” He said, very casually, “Unexploded bomb.” Because of the TV show, I knew this was a thing. They were everywhere south of London— but up here? While we finished our round and were coming back to hole 16, we heard an explosion. John said, “They just blew it up.” Ok, where in America would that happen? We were on the course full of players and the bomb squad very nicely blew up a bomb from WWII! I love the quirky casualness of Scotland!
Back in the pro show, after scolding the starter for giving me the wrong code, we asked about the bomb. “Happens all the time,” he said. “These courses were used as a military testing ground during the War. They’re always finding stuff.” So that was it. Not a German bomb— they couldn’t fly this far and back again. It was the Scots own bombs that they’re still finding. I say, very cool. We were there for a real explosion!! Meanwhile, the staff did us a wee small favor as an apology.
How could we do anything more to beat that? We found a castle that was falling down, but still magnificent— Dundonald Castle—and had a private tour! It was on land where three castles had once been, each taken down for a new owner to rebuild. This one was not a fighting castle, but a place of diplomacy. King Robert II, an unexpected king lived here. Cool! I think it’s my new favorite because of that great hall and the huge bedroom.
Speaking of bedrooms, feeling sleepy. Good night.
Scotland Day 8, 8-20-24: Into the Highlands!
We started the day too late! Had breakfast and said a heartfelt goodbye to Garry, our host at the Fox House Third Part Farm. We had a date with Peter Nevens, our second friend in Scotland, whom we met on our first trip and who is now seriously ailing.
Our trip from Beith to Wishaw took us through Glasgow, a place we’d like to return to when we’re a bit younger or perhaps better rested. The Glasgow accent is as thick as can be. Can you hear this: I onc lived in Blind Sheep. (I once lived in Glenshee.)
Wo ha the amanbrown nsup? (Who has the ham on brown bread with soup?)
The accents, like the politics are extreme. Glaswegians are very pro Scottish independence (from England), the Catholic Church is strong, and everyone has a story to tell, including Peter.
We were a bit late arriving at Peter’s house, but were very glad to see him looking so good, even with his ALS. He told us the whole story about losing his arm strength even while he was playing golf with us last year. He was finally diagnosed this year and grateful that he’s so well taken care of by his brother Andy (who has collected a backyard full of barbecue smokers) and caregivers. To be hospitable, Andy went to the kitchen, then came back with something for both of us, thick cuts of his own smoked brisket. I took a small bit, handed it back to him. He ate it right down. No plates. Not necessary. Just handed it to us. This is Glasgow.
We had a great visit with Peter, remembering stories, telling him about the Scottish Open and the bomb. He told us about his special visit to the men’s Scottish Open and all the friends who had come out to greet him. Everyone loves Peter. It was a touching goodbye because things will change for him before we can get back here. We hope to see him again— and Andy, of the smoked meats, too!
From there, we headed north, through Stirling, toward Perth, and across the Highland Boundary Fault, marking the start of the highlands. Suddenly, the land erupted into a row of hills, all purple and chartreuse with the heather and grasses. Stunning! The road curved gently as we went north up the Great Glen. It’s a geological marvel that the country hasn’t broken in half with all the lochs that link along this fault and cut the country diagonally. On our way, we saw a familiar turn off to Pitlochry— from our first trip here. We pulled off the road to look for the golf course and maybe lunch. Up into the hills to the golf course, we found a team match going on despite it being Tuesday. At 2 pm, match after match was finishing just out our window. We could tell by their faces whether they were winning or losing the hole. Never mind our soup and sandwich, this was live golf!
I bought a few markers. John bought a course guide, but we didn’t have time to play. Instead, we were back on the road for one more hour of gorgeous driving. The Brooklyn House, our B & B in Granton on Spey was just a mile from the golf course. We’d played there last year, so we dropped our bags and headed out. It was only 5 pm. We could easily play 18, but decided to bop around and play the most connected nine holes we could, so we could have time to do the town. Ha ha. The course was sparkling and magical. So nice to play it again!! I took 20 pictures at least. Every time the sun came out, I grabbed my camera. And it didn’t rain at all!
Our evening was spent at Craig’s Bar, known for “pie and ale” (dinner and a pint) and the largest selection of whisky in the Highlands. The barman has an 18-year-old Cardu. Very nice indeed. From there, home to our guest home and the lovely living room, which we have all to ourselves. Good night.
Scotland, Day 9, 8-21-24: Views from the Course
Today was a late start for a late starting time at a very special Speyside golf course called Boat of Garten. There used to be a small ferry across the Spey River and so the town and golf course were named for the boat. We have known about this course since our first visit when we stopped by on a very rainy afternoon to have a look at here and at Granton on Spey. All these years, we’ve been thinking about the special magic of the Spey Valley, but we were set on playing only links courses, so these “parkland” courses were out for us. Last year changed all that. I booked us a darling B & B in Kingussie and we did it all and loved it so much that this year we decided to come back. Yesterday, was Granton on Spey. Today was Boat of Garten. The people here are so kind. The starter gave us the member discount. Our hostess gave us a bag of giant homemade muffins and the bookshop lady, Margie, gave us a discount on our huge purchase. I stopped a young man on the street, Finally, to ask about the Art Gallery. He said that the owner, Angus, was his teacher. I’ll take you right there!” And I’m delighted to say that in the Spey Valley, there are no 9-passenger vans full of large Americans anywhere in sight!
We started Boat of Garten in a light shower and remembered almost every hole and pin placement from last year. I’m happy to say that we both played so much better this time. Our Stableford games resulted in another tie and we both played below our handicaps. Hooray! The conditions were quite difficult because when the showers stopped, the wind started—great when it comes from behind. Horrible to hit into.
So much of Scotland is a fairytale. The little villages with identically pointed roofs (which I call “chimney towns”), the winding streets, the cheerful faces, and now a steam train! On the 6th hole, the Speyside Train came chugging down the tracks, parallel to the course. Puffs of steam, the thump-thump-thump of the wheels, and the toot of the whistle were so iconic. We dropped our bags and started photographing.
And a new word, if you haven’t heard of it—bothy. A bothy is a little building meant to shelter travelers from the weather and perhaps offer a little comfort. Last year, we played behind the ladies’ club and so when we reached the bothy, they urged us to finish off the whisky and muffins. This year, we just filled our water bottle and moved on, but it’s a darling bothy just the same.
When we got to hole 16, my mind was blank. I remembered nothing but on 18 it all came back to me. “Don’t put your ball in the trees!” I shouted through the wind. Neither of us did and we finished nicely. We went right from the course to the restaurant. Golf course food is always right for a blustery day.
From there, we made directly for the local distillery. It was a race to beat their closing time. Cairn Distillery is just two years old and completely cutting edge. The building is huge, full of windows looking out at the scenery, and a bit of steam coming out of the great chimney. Everything is automated. As we approached the building, an elderly man pulled open the door with a big smile. His boss already knew we wanted the tour and started right in, listing all the tastes we were going to get, though we’d have to hurry through the tour because of the late hour. No mention of any kind of pay. Then to reassure herself, “You are the Morrisons, aren’t you?” When I said we weren’t, there was a hush. “We were expecting the owner’s investors. Our mistake. We’ll give you the quick tour, as an apology, but sorry, no tastes.” Indeed, we had a lovely quick tour and were quickly ushered to the exit afterwards with “Please come back tomorrow!” We were very content with the tour and hospitality, and being taken for dignitaries, indeed!
From there, we shopped the High Street and went from the bookshop to the art gallery, chatted and made more friends, then home to teas, soda, whisky, and cozy shelter from the wind and rain.
Good night.
Scotland Day 10, 8-22-24: There’s Never Bad Weather, only inappropriate clothing!
Today was our moving day, but first—breakfast. There’s something I like to do in Scotland and that’s eat haggis in different regions. I had a couple of samples in the Glasgow area, but now that we are in the Highlands, I wanted to make sure to have another taste, this one from the local butcher. It was definitely different and my favorite—slightly peppery and not so tart. When we get down to Fife, where St. Andrews is, I’ll try the vegetarian haggis again. It might beat this one.
After a long, tearful goodbye to Shauna, we were off. In a minute, I did a Johnny-thing. I figured out how to hook my phone up to CarPlay. This was terrific. Now John could see directions on the screen rather than hearing them dictated from me. That done, we went through a little town called Carrbridge. This is a place famous for Carve Carrbridge, a chainsaw sculpture festival, no kidding. And such a small town, we went right by the obvious winner from last year, a highland cow and calf all carved from a giant hunk of tree trunk. I looked up the contest. It’s in September with rules that specify that the art needs to be finished in 15 minutes. It must be a fast and noisy festival!
Our golf today was at Tain, a lovely course that we discovered in 2014 with Johnny and played again in 2016. It was blowing a gale when we started and it was blowing a gale when we finished, only then it was also raining! Hole 11 was probably my favorite because I made it over the “Alps” to the green and two-putted from there. This is a hole right on the water, right before Morangie with a great keg on the edge of the berm for the Glen Morangie distillery, just down the street. But what a day. 30 mph of wind is exhausting. Apparently, this same weather plagued the Women’s British Open down in St. Andrews today. It was a hard round, but with only two lost balls. John did well on many holes—good day for him. I parred the 16th and boggied several difficult holes, but that’s it with bragging. Mostly, I’m proud of all the pictures I took!
After golf, we had a short drive to the Golspie Inn, a charmingly 200 years old mansion and close to the water. It’s a lovely place with a restaurant—comfortable and very convenient!
Scotland Day 11, 8-23-24: Brora is as Wild and Wooly as ever!
Our tee time was 10:10 and we were scheduled to play with Janice from the pro shop, but sadly Janice has recently developed two bad knees. She said neither of them felt up to the game. Plus, she’d forgotten and was scheduled to work today! So, it was just us on our own today (Scottish saying) Something that has really changed in the Highlands is the sudden change in popularity. There were full-sized tour buses in the little Brora Golf Club parking lot! Shock and horror. I’ll take the blame. I’ve obviously told too many friends about the wonders of this lovely links course and the word has spread. So, please don’t tell your friends!!
We were on the first tee swinging away at the appointed time just as another couple and their caddie were coming up behind us. We didn’t stay to chat. Tee times are on a schedule, so we just hit and walked. Later, we found out that they were Scots, transported to Florida. Every time I looked back, they were looking for lost balls, a problem we didn’t have at all today, thankfully.
The course hasn’t changed in the 8 years since we last played it with Johnny! Still, I couldn’t remember any former pin placements. Ha ha! One hole had a strong memory though. #3 when I was surrounded by cows and ran into a bunker to have my picture taken. And then there are the knee-high fences that encircle every green to keep the sheep and cows out. On our first trip here with Johnny in 2014, there was some discussion about whether or not the fences were electrified. Johnny guessed not so I grabbed on hard to pull my trolley under- Zaaap! followed by loads of laughter!!
This round, the animals posed nicely for our photos. Sheep scratched on a bench, long-horned Highland Cows blocked our way, and more sheep surrounded John twice! I do admit to still being intimidated by the very long horns of the cows so waited for the caddie behind us to escort me through a huge herd—thank you!
Game-wise, we both did well. Lots of good shots and sure putts—though many of those toward a wrong break from lack of course knowledge. The sand in these bunkers is fine and heavy. John looks forward to our next game—with a caddie— in hopes of a lesson.
I loved the number of times that because of the tees, our tee shots ended up together—and often our next shots were together as well. One warning to future travelers, however, is that this course is full of blind shots. You often don’t know where to go from the tee box or even where the green is. Hint 1: Buy the course guide, it really helps. Hint 2: The tee boxes are aimed at the fairway. If it’s a blind shot, they’ve given you a post or pole to aim at. Hint 3: Use a range finder. Distances are distorted in flat, overcast light.
After the round, we hung out in the elevated restaurant (gorgeous), watched a few players finish, and a bit of the Women’s AIG Open on TV. Then off to something new—what? Another distillery!
Clynelish Distillery hadn’t quite opened last visit, but now it is big and gorgeous. We had a private tour and a tasting, which we both packed into tiny bottles for later since the driver is not allowed to drink at all—Scottish law. Our guide was fabulous. We loved not being part of a bus tour!
The rest of the evening was spent, hanging out in the bar, writing, reading, and sharing the day’s photos. See below. Good night.
Scotland Day 12, 8-24-24: A late night on the course starts early at a Croft Fair
We had a slow start because we didn’t have a plan for the day besides our very precious game of golf scheduled for the only time we could manage, 4:50pm. Trying to play 18 holes before dark was going to be tricky— and the Tain parade would start at 8 pm. To fill the hours until then, we asked our extremely resourceful manager what she’d advise. She said, “Go to Lairg. They’re having a Croft Fair today.” We had no idea what a “Croft Fair” might be, but it sounded local and real. Nothing touristy about it so we were in!
Sixteen minutes later, we arrived in the wee town of Lairg and followed the windy road and signs leading us down a dirt road. There, a big farmer-fellow (cheerful with missing teeth) greeted us. Parking was on a green, grassy field. This was such a small fair, that we only had to walk through three rows of cars to get to the first event—the dog show! Just tear a page out of the illustrated James Herriot and there you have it. Young kids, parents, and older folks were all there with their dolled-up pups, doing the walk, sit, and whatever. We loved it that the little girl in shorts and a silver jacket won a pink ribbon that she wore for the rest of the day. And the older lady with the Pom Pom hat won with her Pomeranian. They looked alike! So charming, but we had to move on.
Next, were machines including the older threshing machine that John recognized from his grandfather’s farm. And the honey tent with lots of homemade goodies…the highland dancers, the BMX riders and the spinner (Janice McKay) who talked to us like discovered relatives because we share the same maiden name— Wilson. What a lovely morning.
From there, we went into Dornoch and directly to the course. This would be our fourth visit and third round here, and as always, we wonder, is this our last? As we drove closer, however, we were diverted to a long and circuitous path. Finally, like the Croft Fair, we ended up in a grassy “car park” close to the course and facing—shock and horror— the beginnings of a new clubhouse! Beyond the practice green and near the first tee were the tall flag poles and the old clubhouse, Tutor style and so charming. A new clubhouse— who needs new— is part of the sudden upsurge in traffic here from all the Americans? Once again, don’t tell your friends!
We found the town unchanged and delightful. We retraced our steps from last year and went directly to the Highland Hospice Charity Shop where I quickly bought another tartan skirt. All ready for new head covers for someone!
Our caddie today was Fraser O’Neil, a big guy with good advice. I parred the first hole and had several great holes. John played his best round so far. Our lovely playing partners, Juliet and Keith, kept pace with their own strong games as we raced the light. The weather was cold, but the skies were pink and blue at the 9th, and darkening by the minute after that.
Hole 9 is definitely a favorite for views which Tom Watson noted in his rounds here. He also said that #2 (3) was the shortest par 5 in Scotland. Ha ha! This is a course that sometimes ripples in giant swells down the fairway. “Catch a wave” and your ball goes an extra 75. Catch a trough, and you stop short. The greens are gorgeous and views from every hole are splendid. Sigh and goodbye. How fitting that we putted out in near blackness at 9 pm.
Another event that I longed for today was the Highland Parade, schedule for 8pm in the town square. So, how delightful to hear the pipe and drums from the 12 th hole on growing louder as we played toward town. And we’d already seen the dancers at the Croft fair—so there you have it. A perfect day!!
Scotland Day 13, 8-25-24: From a Castle to the Coast
Today was moving day. We were going to drive all the way from Golspie above Inverness down to the Arbroath area below Aberdeen on the east coast. The drive would take four hours. On the recommendation of Janet McKay from the Croft Fair yesterday, we decided to visit Cawdor Castle because of two things. She said the house and garden were wonderful and that Shakespeare had it wrong. Macbeth was never thane of Cawdor because Cawdor castle wouldn’t be built for another two hundred years!
The drive was delightful, through sprinkles, showers, and rain. Sheep were on both sides of the road and our conversation moved from navigation to philosophy to the crazy names that the Scots (and Brits) name things. How about these:
Going through a “chimney town” we saw a restaurant named “The Snug.” Bet that’s a popular one. Then there were the towns…
Moss of Barnacles: (oh, what a combination!)
Lossiemouth (clean up your language, young man!)
Fogwatt (a new kind of lightbulb?)
Dufftown (where all the bad golfers live?)
Windyraw: (the weather on most days around here)
Old Rayne: (Looked like new rain to us)
Cawdor Castle was from a fairy tale. Check out those turrets. Some rooms seemed very updated while the kitchen seemed to have been remodeled last year! Then came the vaulted room, the secret dungeon and circular stairs from the oldest castles in Britain followed by a hallway decorated with modern art. This was a place that has it all! It wasn’t big and came with a handy audio guide.
On our way to the restaurant, the sparse crowd became a large and noisy one. A tour had arrived. Among the French and German tourists, I asked the lady behind me where she was from. She was a Texan and eager to tell her story. She and a couple of friends were touring while their husbands played golf. When she told me the courses, I said, “Those are at opposite ends of the country and spending a lot of time on the road.” “Oh no. We’re doing it all by helicopter!” So, there’s a travel option that we haven’t tried yet. Hmm…
The gift shop had “handmade in Scotland” sweaters, handmade (from somewhere else) knitted hats, and fingerless gloves. There were loads of lovely dodads— I could have filled a shopping bag—or, not. I just admired everything and bought one more hat. (Only three so far this trip.)
We visited the maze garden (a favorite in our family) and the gorgeous flower garden before heading back on the road. The navigation took us along the north coast to Nairn, then through the Cairngorms National Park to Aberdeen, then south along the coast to Arbroath. Our next bed and breakfast would be the Lunan House, a stately old mansion remodeled into a large B & B. It has gorgeous gardens and is just a 4-minute walk to the sandy shore. We did the walk but will do more when there’s more daylight and maybe a bit of sun (if it’s not too much to ask.) Our room is as clean and comfortable as they all have been. We’re happy to be cozy indoors on another chilly night. Sleep tight!
Scotland Day 14, 8-26-24: The Hogan Hole and the Ghost Tour!
Today was our day to play Panmure, a little-known golf course on the east with Carnoustie very near and Monifieth sharing an OB line. We were welcomed like old friends (no tour buses) and given lovely bag tags and a coupon for Kümmel after our round! I learned about this course from a little book called “From the Tees” that I bought last year. Absolutely lovely, but tricky in the wind. #6 is called “Hogan” because in 1953, Hogan came here a week before the Open and practiced every day. His favorite hole was #6. He then went on to win the Open by 4 strokes.
We played in nice weather!! It wasn’t sunny, but it was only blowing a bit, and no more than a spatter of rain just after we finished. We arrived in time to warm up and were told that our caddie would meet us about 15 minutes before the round. As we wandered toward the first hole, no caddie. The head starter (such lovely people here) said he would drive the caddie out to us when he arrived. Backstage, an email was never sent so they had to scurry. By the time we were just ready to tee off on #2, the head pro drove Kerr out to us in a buggy. Really nice service.
Kerr was to be my caddie. He hefted my bag and told me where to put every shot, as caddies do. We had a lovely round, just the three of us. The Hogan hole was definitely my favorite, too. The fairway turns to the left and the green is elevated. It’s gorgeous. My round was pretty good, but John said his game suffered from lost balls (though he hit lots of great shots.)
Golf story of the day from Kerr: When he started caddying young, things were different. There weren’t any stand bags. You just lay your bag on the turf. He was working with an older caddie one day when his man hit it into the tall, tall rough. It took three caddies to find the ball and when they did, the two caddies went off to find their players shots. Then the older caddie called them back, embarrassed. “I need a bit more help,” he whispered. “Can’t find the bag!”
Lunch was in the very traditional clubhouse (reminiscent of Kilspindie and Longniddry). While we were eating, one the fellows who let us play through on #6 came to introduce himself and invite us to play his course in South Africa! He gave me his number. Should we follow up? Or not…Hmmm…
With some daylight remaining, we decided to visit the other Macbeth castle, Glamis. “All hail, Macbeth, hail to thee Thane of Glamis. All hail, Macbeth, hail to thee Thane of Cawdor. All hail, Macbeth, that shalt be King hereafter.” This was a terrific castle. It had some medieval bits and some updated 19th century rooms with great portraits on the walls and stories to explain the whole family. The very strong Queen Mother connection made it completely legitimate and really connected. (Sorry Cawdor!) We had a delightfully quirky tour guide who knew all the stories and was very relaxed. He added humor by knocking on doors and walls to awaken the resident ghosts and then followed up with great ghost stories! No actual ghosts, but since were the last tour of the day, the lore made it all the more enjoyable. (We couldn’t take any photos inside except in the last room.)
Terrific day even though I didn’t buy another hat. The one I tried on did not get the nod from John. Tomorrow rain. Must rest up. Good night.
Scotland Day 15, 8-27-24: Carnoustie with Kerr
This trip has been filled with great golf on great golf courses and even though I am against tour-bus-courses, we have played a few this time. All that said, we booked Carnoustie for the second time in two years because we truly enjoyed the variety of holes and layout of this course. Expecting to be disappointed because of bad weather in the forecast, it turned out that the 30-minute car-ride was the only rain we got. Hooray!
Kerr, our wonderful caddie from yesterday, agreed to work for us again today. Dave, a single, and his caddie were there, but the fourth player, Steve, phoned in that he was on his way from the airport in Edinburgh. It turned out that he’d just flown in from Boston, then straight to the course—and he’d forgotten to put his contact lenses in! The greeting he gave his young caddie was, “Watch everything! I can’t see a thing!” He had a wild game and was delighted with his one par on #10. Go Steve.
I could not find my stride for the first several holes. In fact, it wasn’t until the 8th hole that I had my first par. The pace was rigorous, but the weather was dark and dramatic. John was doing great. In fact, despite the deep rough and occasional water, he lost no balls today. Hooray, John! He also had many good holes. I have to give a lot of credit to Kerr for my game improvement. As he patiently told me where to put the ball, I found my stride. Mostly pars and one birdie on the back—ah, to play this way all the time…
After the game, we ate heartily at the Carnoustie Rookery (because our very lovely B&B does not do a tasty dinner.) The name “Carnoustie” as legend has it, (code for “might be true”)… There are crows around here and crows make a cawing sound. In Scottish, that might be a “caar” sort of distortion. And crows live in nests, changed to “Noust”—together Car-noust-ie. So there you have it!
During the Senior Open (held here just a few weeks ago), I memorized all the names of all the holes on the course—ask me to recite them sometime. Ha ha! (Cup, Gulley, Jockie’s Burn, Hillock, Brae, Hogan’s Alley…). It was fun to learn the stories behind the names from Kerr. He was a delightful person. We were so glad to have “played” golf with him for two days and will do our best to keep in touch!
And that’s it. Apologies to non-golfers, but today we only talked about local sights. There is the Red Tower nearby, apparently falling down and very scary. And the 18th c. Boddin Point Lime Kilns which are supposed to be bleak. There is also the Arbroath Signal Tower Museum, which gets great reviews. Which would you choose? We shall see what tomorrow brings. Good night.
Scotland Day 16, 8-28-24: The Buddon Course and a museum?
Today started leisurely. Our starting time was for 10:37 at the Buddon Course, a smaller course at Carnoustie. We were so delighted with our round yesterday that we booked a round on Buddon just so we could look longingly over the fence at the Championship course as we played.
The Buddon Course is shorter, but beautiful and with a huge pond that comes into play on several holes. There are lots of thoroughly challenging par 3’s and just three par 5’s. A lovely course, really. And the pace of play was perfect— as was the weather. Big news, the sun was out and we both took off our jackets! First time in two and a half weeks. So how Scottish then, that on the 18th tee box, the skies darkened with spits of rain. By the time we got to the green, it was sprinkling. By the time we putted out, we were digging for waterproofs. By the time we go to the clubhouse, we were running for cover!
Once again, we chose to eat here rather than our lovely B&B and their mucky dinners. (Breakfast is fabulous, however. Check out the coffee machine!) Up in the Rookery Restaurant, I followed up on an idea from last year. I asked the bar tender if she had any empty whisky bottles. Empty? She was confused. Yes, that you’re about to toss. In a minute, she came back with a lovely bottle of Glencallan whisky. When we were halfway through our soup, the boss came by with the cork and the box for the bottle! It’s lovely and ready to pack in my luggage. Bets on whether it makes it to LA without breaking? Apparently, I picked a local brand with a nearby distillery! John checked their hours and found that they are temporarily closed to visitors. ☹️
We had a great time watching golfers tee off in the rain and seeing all the sorts of people who have come so far to play here. In the sea of men, two women teed off! Then guys, guys, guys, everyone with caddies. Then a group without any caddies. It was fun to see the tee shots and remember all our stories from yesterday. Nice place, Carnoustie as seen from the Rookery.
At 3:00 I remembered the Single Tower Museum and checked the time. We thanked the staff for all their efforts and retrieved our wet jackets from a heated closet where they had dried—ahh, Carnoustie— and raced to the car. Driving carefully but speedily, John got us there in time, just in time to see the gate close. I jumped out of the car, “But we still have 30 minutes, don’t we?” The answer was no. There was a private party scheduled for today. And behind her, right on cue, the bagpipe started to play. We might come back tomorrow on our way out of town. It really looks like a lovely museum.
Scotland Day 17, 8-29-24: From Museum to Castle, but not that kind of castle!
At breakfast, we had a long talk with Leon who serves us drinks at night and breakfast in the morning. Great guy, probably 23 who showed us photos from Ullapool where he and his girlfriend took a winter holiday… very white with snow, a beautiful. The Lunan House, run by 20-somethings was terrific—the location, the solitude, the beach and gardens, and our room! The breakfasts were great, but not the dinners. Turns out it is also the local pub, which explains the food, I guess.
We had no plan until we were on the road. Then John suggested the VA Museum in Dundee, just an hour down the road. I say that you know you’re in Dundee when you start seeing construction cones everywhere. It’s been 13 years and every time we pass through this town, the roads are under construction. Luckily, the VA Museum turns out to be right next to the Discovery Museum which are both very near the Tay Bridge. And it comes with a huge sailing ship, the Discovery! With penguins out front, we knew we were in for an Antarctic expedition, so chose that museum to start with. It was a fabulously photographed account of Scott’s expedition and other attempts to accomplish great things on Antarctica. We loved every display and film. On the dock, ship looks 123 years old and in need of more repair, but it was nice to board it and walk through all the decks and check out the rigging — bunt, bunt, sheet, bunt bunt. Cool place.
St. Andrews is a lovely, friendly place with a website that is rubbish (Brit word). We had to go there in person to inquire about tee times. How fabulous to drive by all the stands left over from the Women’s Open just last week! This is way way bigger than the Scottish Open. And the gal in the shop said she’d actually talked to Lydia Ko on the phone! We’re all so star-struck by these amazing players. Anyway, at the desk we got a tee time—hooray!! And for a course we’ve never played before, the Castle Course!
The Castle Course is right on the water and only a few miles from The Golf Hotel where we are staying. Perfect. I also asked for a caddie, but so late in the day, the best the starter could do was ask each caddie coming off the course if he wanted another loop. At the last minute, we got the best of the best, Lance, a delightful man with course knowledge and optimism for my game. Thank you, Lance! John carried his own bag, Lance carried mine and away we went.
The fairways were undulating and the greens, big and tricky. On every tee box was a great photo opportunity. On #6, we could see the ruins of St. Andrews abbey and on so many holes, we could see the sea. It was my kind of course and the most beautiful of the trip, I think. John does not agree. He says it’s exceedingly difficult with punishing rough and fairways that are hard to read. To be fair, we were playing in 20+ mph wind, but that only made the skies more dramatic. It was a great day. I didn’t shoot a low score, but I played to my handicap, so it was fair.
And the Golf Hotel— so welcoming for a 400-yr old inn. They carried our luggage, made sure the kitchen stayed open for us, and smiled and chatted despite the hour. It also has the very coolest bar in all of Scotland! We feel cozy here. Good night.
Scotland Day 18, 8-30-24: Crail Balcomie —Hooray, more great golf!
At our lovely breakfast at the historic old old old (300 years old) Golf Hotel that creaks like an old ship, I called for a starting time—and got one! I actually didn’t realize that the Crail Golf Club is just 6 minutes away on this very road. Crail has two courses, the Balcomie and Craighead. Of the two, Balcomie is superior because of the excellent lay out and proximity to the ocean. We could see the sea from every hole. And every hole was truly a challenge. There was wind and sun, cold and warmth. We started off with thick jackets and ended up in shirtsleeves. Typical Scottish weather.
The course goes up and down a bit, but what a terrific challenge. Our playing partners were two youngish men— Will and Brian— friends from Colorado who still get together with two other guys for wild golf outings. They had hired a company to take care of them and one driver is a party van was driving them all over the place for one week of continuous golf. When the guide suggested a touring day in Inverness, they said, “Why not more golf instead?” My kind of guys.
And despite the fact that they were both well over 6 feet and we weren’t, and they could both hit the ball a ton, we both beat them gross. More importantly, they were interesting and kind. At the end of the game, I invited them to join us for a drink while they waited for their other two guys to come in. We had a delightful conversation about golf in Scotland, one of my favorite topics.
So Crail Balcomie is a total winner of a course! And so is the restaurant and bar. After a drink and soup with the boys, we toddled down the road a mile or so to our hotel and decided to walk the town, something we have done several times in the past. We know a few places. Morgan at the Marine Hotel took us in a few years ago when I made an error and reserved a room for us in South Africa (I really did!) Then down past the old castle wall right on the sea and around to the lovely little road the curls down to the quay. As we walked down the steep grade, we passed the house with the model sailing ship in the window. Then down to where all the boats are high and dry because it’s low tide, and then down to the seashore where families and dogs are enjoying a late evening runabout.
Two little girls came up to John. I could see him waving his hands around and so came to his rescue. They were little Ellie and big sister Emily, and they had rocks for sale. Well, I had a small 10 pence in my pocket so felt rich enough to buy a rock. The girls took me to their “shop” and told me about each rock. I picked up one and asked how much. £20 they said. What? Anyway, I ended up with a small rock (all I could afford!) and said a fond farewell to the darling girls. On the way back across the sand, I met a man carrying a baby. He was cheerful but with his arms full, I could tell he was the father. He held out his hand full of small pieces of sea glass and seeing that I was carrying a rock said with a smile, “This is all the currency you really need to pay for rocks around here.” It was totally a scene from the Katie Morag children’s books!
On the way back, we stopped at another charming place, The Beehive. It’s a seaside gift shop that also sells ice cream. I bought a few happy things, but not a sailing ship, alas.
Before dinner, we stopped in the lounge and found the owner watching golf. We had a lovely chat about this fabulous hotel— which isn’t for everyone, by the way. That’s when he told us that old Morgan from the Marine Hotel had finally died just three weeks ago. We all knew why. He was perpetually drunk. I was happy that we’d stopped by last year to thank him for his earlier kindness. Downstairs, I had to pop into the bar especially when the singing started up— Old Lang Syne — and someone had a great voice! Just one verse though…☹️
What a lovely, homey place. Good night.
Scotland Day 19, 8-31-24: Finally back in East Lothian, the Golf Coast!
Today was moving day. Darn. I liked being in one place for a couple of nights. Every place we’ve stayed has been terrific in its own way, but the Golf Hotel is quite special, even when the neighbor runs water at 6 am and the whole building is suddenly awake. Hey, it’s 300-year-old plumbing. What do you expect!!
We said fond farewell to Jo Jo, our bartender, breakfast attendant, and check-out hostess. At breakfast, I had made a starting time for a course in East Lothian, the Golf Coast. We would be playing Gullane #2 today, one or our favorites, or so we thought.
To be fair (a very Scottish phrase), it was blowing a gale out there. And, we had forgotten about the hill— Gullane Hill, maybe you’ve heard of it? It’s really a mountain and it’s covered with fairways and greens to accommodate the three courses here, #1, #2, and #3. The first two holes went very well, but the third had us looking straight up at a striped pole. “That’s your aiming point,” John reminded me. I vigorously dislike straight-up holes and this one did not behave at all. While John was on in three and looking at par, I was next to the green, then behind it. Not a happy 6. I think it was mostly the views we remember from Gullane—stunning. And how cool to look across the water, the Firth of Forth, and practically see the place we were standing yesterday at the Crail quay.
Gullane goes up and down as it works its way around the mountain. Some holes were fair, others were ridiculous. Kilspindie just across a small bay, was a delightful course… at the top of one hill, we looked at it longingly. Gullane has just completely rebuilt their clubhouse, however, which made a good final stop. Now it’s all glass with golf or soccer playing on every wall. The menu included good pub food and healthy fish. We started with beer, then ate heartily. After all, today was a hard-working day on Gullane hill.
Finally, we returned to the wonderful Standing Stone Farmhouse where there was a room for us waiting at the top of the stairs. Feels like home! We had a lovely long chat with Karen and Anne and made plans for dinner tomorrow night. All set for our last day— rain in the forecast. What a surprise. Good night.
Scotland Day 20, 9-1-24: Castles and a dinner out!
Today was a lazy day then all at once, we were on the road, eager to celebrate our last day in Scotland this year. We started with plans but stopped everything to pack our golf bags. This is an ordeal best done without rain and since rain was predicted. Once the golf bags were stuffed full, we zoomed off first to Tantallon Castle, nearby and familiar, to a degree. It’s a late medieval pile of rocks, but with staircases and views out to sea. It goes all the way up to the battlements and down to a dungeon. There is a great hall and a kitchen. Really quite a lovely castle.
From there, we went into North Berwick, quite near the famous golf course there, and toodle around with the plan to have lunch at Westgate Gallery. Sadly, they no longer serve lunch, so we backtracked to the Herringbone for soup and a love lamb burger, the first of this trip! Absolutely delicious.
Still time for another castle so we drove a short way to Dirleton Castle, a slightly older castle than Tantallon and also a falling down pile of rocks, but this one actually came with warning signs. We entered for half price because of all the repairs needed. It’s true the falling down castles do actually become dangerous at some point. The good news is that Dirleton is really a terrific castle with incredible architecture. There are decorative markings on the walls, huge archways and vaulted ceilings. This is a work of art.
In the evening, we made plans to take Anne and Karen out for dinner. At 5:30, we all met in the hallway and made the plan to go to the Goblin Ha in Gifford. It’s a charming sort of pub with a menu of pub grub. But with a bottle of wine and lots of fun conversation, we had a terrific evening. Everyone went home happy.
Tomorrow is quite early so this is good night. Thanks so much for traveling with us.
Castles:
Dundonald Castle, private tour
Cawdor Castle, self-guided tour
Glamis Castle, tour with Ewan (great castle!)
Tantallon
Dirleton
Golf Courses:
(Castle Park)
Kilspindie
Royal Troon
(Dundonald, ISAS Open)
West Kilbride
Portland, at Troon
Granton on Spey
Boat of Garten
Tain
Brora
Royal Dornoch
Panmure
Carnoustie Championship
Carnoustie Buddon
St. Andrews Castle
Crail Balcomie
Gullane #2
Museums:
Riverside Museum
Glasgow Old Church with Viking Stones
Discovery Museum
Dundee V&A
Churches:
Glasgow Cathedral
Glasgow Old Church
Dornoch Cathedral
Distilleries:
Cairn
Clynelish