Day 13: Cruden Bay, The Championship Course, and our very Scottish caddie.

Our game wasn’t until 1 pm, so we started the day with a walk along the Cruden Waters River, then down a tree-covered path, up a gently sloping field through overcast skies to a great view of the North Sea. There we saw the ruins of New Slain’s Castle which was a strong influence for “Dracula.” Just lovely. Returning, we drove a short way to Peterhead and considered playing the Peterhead course tomorrow, but with all the negative reviews from our Scottish acquaintances, we are rethinking that plan. Stay tuned as we consider other courses!

New Slains Castle creates a terrific silhouette, though it is only all walls now, no floors or roof.

We asked for a caddie yesterday and were delighted that the starter could find someone so quickly. Caddies are not on staff and don’t hang out waiting for a loop at many courses in Scotland. Instead, they are mostly members who supplement their dues (as high as 1,000 pounds annually) by caddying for foreigners. Their caddie fees are very affordable, which makes for a good deal all around!

John and Ellis walking down the second fairway of Cruden Bay.

Today our caddie was Ellis (25 years old, a good golfer, and a member at Cruden Bay). He was quite pleased with our first tee shots and proceeded to run between us all day long, telling us where to hit and how to roll our putts. Apparently, we were pretty good at following directions, because he sure shouted “Good Shot!” a lot!!

Even though Cruden Bay GC is a terrific links course designed by Old Tom Morris, there are a few blind shots—can’t see the fairway over the dune or can’t see the pin from your approach, also over a dune. There are dunes everywhere, because this course is right above the beach. The best view from any tee in Scotland is from the 9th tee at Cruden Bay (they won the award) and the textures of grasses are amazing from everywhere. There is plenty of gorse, but landing in the tall grass is just as bad. Stay on the fairway if you’d like to see your ball again!

This is hole #9 from a height, a gorgeous par 3 surrounded by gorgeous grasses.

And the little burn that runs in front of #10 and then wiggles around the middle of #13 is so charming. See the photos below! We met up with the couple in front of us on #15, on the blind par three. He duffed his ball into a hill. She hit a gorgeous iron 190 yards. After the game, we had drinks with them. They’re from Alloway, England, in the Lake District, and thoroughly loved the course. So two more votes for Cruden Bay.

Here is what Cruden Bay is famous for, the snaky burn that sneaks up on your shot! This is hole #13, with lots of chances to keep your ball dry!

We exchanged contact information with our caddie. He would love to host us next time we’re in town— he says, because we followed his directions so well. That’s very nice of him. After the round, John was so pleased with his game that he told me, “I had a great game.” And a bit later, “Did I tell you? I shot a low score!” And a little later, “My best game in Scotland, ever!” So Ellis earned his pay and John is a happy golfer!!

Here I am posing on hole #18, the flag behind and all balls putted in. Time for a half-a Guinness!

After a delicious dinner at Cruden Bay, we found a quiet crowd at Kilmarnock Arms. No duck races or loud parties… just a few of us and the ghost of Bram Stoker looking for his room…ooooo… Good night.