We knew what was coming. Still, it was great fun. We got to ride— and me, drive (!) a horse-drawn buggy to the Edfu Temple. The Edfu Temple is famous for being the most complete of all the temples, including the surrounding neighborhood of 2000-year-old houses, because the whole thing had been preserved under the sand for a thousand years.

Before we entered, Ahmed (said Akmed) told us the “true” legend— laugh laugh— involving the couples Isis and Osiris (in love) and Nefiti and Set (a Satan figure— unhappy couple. All sorts of plotting and escaping. Osiris is chopped into 14 pieces. Isis can only recover 13 pieces. His “zucchini” (Ahmed’s euphemism) is missing! Oh no! So in order to have a child (Horus), Isis must make him a new zucchini (!) out of clay. It stays very hard —of course.

This temple had some x-rated pictures on the wall of the fertility room, but Ahmed trusted us to keep that part of the tour quiet! Then, one of our party told a double x-rated joke to Ahmed, who laughed so hard, we thought we were going to lose him! Very fun group!!

Back to the horse and carriage and ride back to the ship. A very pleasant way to get to know and feel the city. We dodged cars and women in full burkas (not traditional here) and motor scooters and the occasional truck! Then, we were off to “sea” and down the river we go up toward Luxor which would take the rest of the day. 

At the Esna Lock, we had another adventure. We’d heard about this and were prepared, but as our ship neared the locks, merchants rowed up to the boat yelling, “Hey, Lady!” like a catcall. What they really wanted was to sell us their scarves and tablecloths. Never mind that they were on the water in a flimsy boat. They could throw their stuff anywhere. And their aim was right on. As soon as I looked down from the top deck, I was pelted by tablecloths! Since I wanted to throw them all back, I ran down to Leslie and Fritz’s private deck. Then I was hit by more tablecloths! Above me, the crowd had gathered. Lots of laughter —and buying. This was great fun!!

As we entered the lock, the merchants came right along with us, selling everything they threw to the boat as the water level sank and the gates opened. What arms, what aim! You’ll have to come over sometime and learn a bit of ancient Egyptian from my new tablecloth— with matching napkins!