Day 2: Archerfield Golf Club

We were happy to discover that our starting time today wasn’t until 10:50. We did have an empty gas tank to deal with first, but a later starting time meant a little more sleep, which we dearly needed. Archerfield is a course we’d driven by many, many times on our way to Gullane Golf Club. 

We drove through the great stone gates, then down a long, long road that seemed to be a village of its own. There was a huge house (castle?) and lots of outbuildings and half-finished homes. Everywhere were signs welcoming us to the Scottish Open (next month), which will be held next door at the Renaissance Club as per usual. A lot of Archerfield will be used to provide supporting setups and storage for the event. No equipment has arrived yet, but the tents will probably arrive “tomorrow.”

A view of the sparkling sky and the Archerfield Clubhouse.

Now for the grand entrance to the clubhouse— a big, gorgeous building with pillars and steps and an attendant to receive our clubs. This is the American way of country clubs, but not in Scotland— that we’ve ever seen. Inside was a massive reception area with trophy cases filled with silver and crystal. At the other end was a lovely pro shop, very well stocked with great colors and styles. We checked in, were welcomed, and directed. Our host would not be here, but we were invited to play with a single, so we made our way down the back corridor to the men’s and women’s locker rooms downstairs and out the back around the corner to a lovely chipping area and putting green. Chip chip, putt putt, and we were off through the forested walkway to the distant first tee of the Fidra Course. There, waiting for us was Tom, probably surprised that people were joining him, but welcoming just the same. 

Yesterday, when we met Juliet, we talked our way right past our tee time and had to let two matches and a friendly game play ahead of us. Today, we introduced ourselves and were off. Archerfield is a beautiful course made all the more lovely by the great, clear day we had, sunshine and puffy clouds. The first fairway and many of the fairways were tree-lined with tall pines and straight trunks. The feeling is of sentries watching. Those trees are probably a savior in some winds. Today, the wind was either with us or against us. Into the wind or away from it. It really made a difference. John hit his longest drive downwind on the 10th hole. Wow! We all did well, but Tom did the best, which is good because he has a match on Saturday. The course is well guarded by bunkers filled with soft brown dirt. 

Here we are on the 3rd green with the Robert Stevenson Fidra lighthouse in the background.

The signature hole that took my breath away was #3, a par-3 which headed right for the sea. The tall pines were planted widely apart so that nearby Fidra Island with a large and gorgeous Robert Stevenson lighthouse* on one end. So there we are, looking at the green, the wide-set trees, the ocean, Fidra Island, and the lighthouse. Spectacular view. 

The 3rd hole, with the Stevenson Lighthouse on Fidra Island in the distance.

We had met Tom on the first tee for the first time, and yet we ended the game like old friends—almost like, “See you next week!” Well, maybe next year. We all three went into the clubhouse and had a drink together— try a non-alcoholic Gunner sometime. It’s delicious!!

John and Tom, walking towards the next hole.

From Archerfield, which we hated to leave, we went into North Berwick for a little shopping, then into Gullane to have a late lunch at The Old Clubhouse restaurant, which is a rare pub that stays open for food until late. Most stop food at 4 or so. It was lovely to sit where we’d been for the Ladies Scottish Open one August years ago, when we sat near Jenny Kang and a friend, while Dame Laura Davies was having a big party in the adjoining room. We had good pub food—steak and chips and a strawberry dessert. Yum and well deserved!

It was a lovely day. Surprises in store for tomorrow, but warning…they might start with a bit of golf!

* Lighthouses | Robert Louis Stevenson