We spent all day yesterday and all night traveling across the Atlantic. When ships near land in the Canadian Arctic, they are requested to slow to 15 knots so as to make a quiet entrance into the bay and not disturb the sea life. We sailed in slowly, but into rough weather. It was raining and blowing and the sea was churning all around us even as we took our position off the shoal—clearly marked by lighter colored water.

More than 100 people aboard we scheduled to go ashore, so there was a collective sigh when the captain announced that all activities would be put on hold until further notice. Down in the education center, we saw the huge weather map— lots of red lines— no good— so we hung out and waited and ate. Best to be prepared. When the weather calmed and the captain announced that shore excursions would begin, we were dressed in all the layers and ready to go before we realized we were in the third group!

Getting dressed. I have to include all that we are required to wear for dry landings. The giant heavy boots are added for wet landings, which will begin tomorrow. You can see that once dressed, we are exhausted. Add to all this, my light weight backpack and John’s heavy camera. And still, we take the stairs.

We only waited about 30 minutes before our group was ready to board the zodiac (with our very wet driver) and put-put through the sloshing water to the small landing. We had been spying on land with our huge binoculars all morning and could see only corrugated buildings and dirt roads. Indeed, once ashore, we walked along a nicely shaped, fully functional dirt road. Our first stop was the remains of a sod house and several Inuit women there ready with hot tea made on a stove fuelled by dried lichen. Still, we’re in the land of no trees, where wood is precious. We learned how cozy the sod hut can be in winter and how many people it housed. This one room home, could keep 6-8 people comfy, she said.

Up the road, past the Co-op , medical center (all serious cases and pregnancies are flown to Iqaluit, Nunavut, still not a big hospital. Viking crew greeted us along our path and our local guide told us stories about her young life. She had skipped school today to give us this tour and while we were bundled up, she was wearing a thick jacket, but no hat and just Uugs for footwear. We must have looked so silly to her.

In the community center up the road, we were entertained by a series of live performances. The hall was like a basketball court and we all sat around the sides. Young men were doing various traditional tricks. There was a structure like a tree with a small seal hanging from a string. He sat on the ground holding one knee bent and with the other leg, jumped up to kick the seal. Wow. And many tricks to follow. Cool show.

Our walk back to the ship, down the same main road took us by the library/nature center. Here we saw a narwhale hanging from the ceiling, lots of stuffed animals and costumes, hunting dioramas, and tools. Very cool place. Then back to the boat.

We were on land for 1-2 hours. As we walked back to the boat, we saw here what we’d seen in the small towns of Greenland. Raw sewage is handled as it leaves the home and then is dumped right into the sea. That’s the way they do it so it must work.

Back aboard, it was already 5 pm, just enough time for swimming, dinner, a peak in at the fun whisky tasting party (all American) and to bed. Tomorrow a wet landing! Good night.